There’s more than one instance in the PEX portion of the revised and expanded Plumbing A House, where the author makes known (to put it lightly) his concerns with the water rights situation in California, the most populous State in our Union. (Water rights vary by State and California is by no means facing a daunting water future, alone.) In this blog post I would like to take this opportunity to tell you about a new book that regardless of where you live, you might want to read if you have any interest in water issues, at all. Personally speaking, the author believes that all residents of the Seven Western States in the Colorado River Compact should know what’s contained in this book.
On my suggested reading list in Plumbing A House, Cadillac Desert was at the top. This new read: Tim Stroshane’s Drought, Water Law and the Origins of California’s Central Valley Project is an excellent follow-up, illuminating many (formerly unmentioned) events that were precursors to the creation of the State Water Project, and which (now) raises awareness about the intractable problems still facing California’s water future. (One of the very succinct bits of information is Stroshane’s quote of Abraham Lincoln: “As a result of the war, corporations have been enthroned and an era of corruption in high places will follow, and the money power of the country will endeavor to prolong its reign by working upon the prejudices of the people until all wealth is aggregated in a few hands and the Republic is destroyed.”
The issues raised in Stroshane’s book (in this author’s opinion) also directly affect the not so far off future of the plumbing industry and the continued role of the plumber in our society. Humankind requires clean water to stay alive and our current methods of sanitary plumbing are built upon unconstrained supplies. Great progress is being made by large population centers on water re-use, but the question remains whether nature will continue to serve up dependable precipitation for these and current systems to continue.
If you were also to read “Clean And Decent” which is on the suggested reading list, you would see early examples of “dry” (‘earth’) toilets, which in some new form (composting?) could again (no matter how ‘unpalatable’) be in our future. Whether you fall into the riparian law camp or that of the appropriative law proponents (you might surprise yourself to discover which one you are.). Stroshane will help you understand California’s future water battles as they unfold.
Well, the author hopes that Part 1 (below) suffices, about the tape that isn’t, and now feels it’s time to recommend how to best apply the stuff.
As much a difference as sufficiently polishing (cleaning) copper components means for no-leak sweating success, the same goes for the cleanliness of threads, both male/female, regardless of diameter and regardless of material. So we’ll do this wrapping routine with this also in mind.
Let’s start this training exercise with a ½-in. or ¾-in. pipe nipple, 4-in. or longer. It could be a galvanized one, a brass one or a Schedule 80 PVC threaded nipple. Are you right or left handed? The author happens to be right handed. If you are LH, I hope you have become a sufficient RH/LH translator/transcriber by this stage of your adventure.
Let’s also pretend you are me, and we’re sitting on an up-turned 5 gal bucket in an unfinished bathroom or maybe we’re kneeling down on a mature tile floor removing the lavatories corroded ½-in. galvanized, hot supply nipple. (The hot ALWAYS goes first.) In both situations a new nipple needs to be inserted into empty female threads, in front of us. (I don’t know about you but my favorite knee pads are those made for carpet install pros. They’re thick, genuine leather with thick felt liners, with double leather straps and metal buckles. Very comfortable and no sweating.)
PtP carries around old toothbrushes and new, standard trade, hog-hair paste-flux-brushes for cleaning threaded female fittings. He also has pipe taps to quickly run in and out, which dislodges stubborn foreign matter and dresses imperfect threads. (See: The PEX Revised and Expanded Edition of Plumbing A House for some suggestions on the use of fittings for fuel gas systems.) Of course male threads are easier and quicker to clean in preparation for engaging pipe to fittings and vice versa. But equally important is always starting with clean female threads.
So, Here We Go!
For this tutorial I’ve chosen a new ½- or ¾-in. Schedule 80 std. right hand threaded PVC nipple. I’ve made this choice for the easy-on-the-eyes gray color, and if recently purchased from the supplier, the threads will be as clean as a whistle, and dry. We will work with a roll of quality ½-in. tape. The length of the tape on any spool will vary, by price. Hardware stores will tend to sell rolls with less on them for customers with only occasional needs but usually only serious hardware stores will carry 3.5 Mil, 99% pure tape, what we want for this exercise.
Also, many tradesmen opt for 620-in. rolls, as does yours truly. The 1,000 plus-inch rolls (like Blue Monster) which have become popular these days, might pose a bigger challenge for the new-learner unless they had large hands and long fingers. Pete the Plumber recommends the 620-inch rolls which he (with gorilla mitts) finds more comfortable to manipulate, and would think so especially for new learners.
O.K., Lay It On Me!
As hinted in the first paragraph, from here our second push might qualify for some readers as sickeningly elemental. That’s alright. The author was always ‘queasy’ for a day (or longer) after lifting the lids on Greasy Spoon Restaurants’ grease traps. I ‘m going to be very anal in this second push because I would be happy if this post could really put the ribbon seal topic to rest.
Fine. We’re comfortably either standing, sitting, or kneeling. In our left hand, palms down, fingers are wrapped around the nipple (of which about 1¼-in. pokes out past your thumb and forefinger, into space.) With the tape cover off find the end of the tape and pull out 2 inches. Place the spool on your right index finger. Have the tape hanging off the back side of the spool. This is very important because it affords you better control. Now, on the same hand, grip the bottom of the dangling tape between your thumb and middle finger.
Next, bring close up, the nipple in your left hand, towards you, from behind the tape, and approximate the bottoms of tape (in your fingers) and bottom of the nipple. Now on the spool hosting hand, separate middle finger and thumb, and let the tape hang free, so it hangs in front of the nipples threads. We’ve draped the dangled tape in front of and over to the edge of the threads. You want the outside edge of the tape to be right at the edge of the nipples first thread, that is, the one at the front edge of the nipple. And, we want the tape not to hang below the bottom of the nipple.
When you’ve got that, still holding the nipple firmly, lift your thumb on that left hand and move it over and press the center of the tape tightly, in place. Keep your thumb on it firmly; don’t let it slip.
Now, with the middle finger on the spool-hosting hand, pressing on the far, back side rims of the spool, and the thumb pressing the front (acting as a brake), pull the tape (away from you) out over the top of the nipple, letting out about 5½ inches of tape, and stop. Next, pull on the tape with some ‘good’ force. Don’t worry if you break it. We’ve gotta whole roll to play with. We’re using quality 3.5 Mil, 99 percent pure PFTE. (Those attempting this with the cheap stuff will have a much less satisfying experience.) Maintaining this pulling tension, in a circular path, slowly lower your spool hand down until you can plainly see the top threads of the nipple, in high relief, under the tape. Good. Then maintaining that pulling tension, bring the spool forward, towards you, (below the nipple), and begin to encircle the nipple in this clockwise direction slowly, maintaining tautness. When you are bringing the tape upwards and about to reach your thumb, lift the front edge of your thump so you can go under it and keep going until you go around once more, and are about to reach it again. At this point you should be able to remove your thumb as you climb up the threads, overlapping by one-half tape width as you climb to the top thread. Almost done. Once at the top thread we will keep winding, this time back down, lapping as you go, until you cover our very first wrap, where we started. Maintain the tension. FINALLY, put your left thumb back on the tape FIRMLY. (The higher the quality of tape the more of a chore this becomes.) Now, we want the shortest distance between spool edge and nipple. We will finally separate the tape. This is done by tightly gripping the spool with thumb and both fingers, and pulling the spool away from the held-in-place nipple with a jerking motion. If you pull slowly you will merely stretch the tape too far before breaking it. You can also employ a jolt of near-equal force in opposite directions if it’s easier for you. After the tape breaks, keep your left thumb firmly pressed on the tape and set the spool aside. Finally, (yeah, finally) using your right hand thumb and index finger, do a forceful twisting (only in the same clockwise direction) of the tape-end into the thread’s valleys. With good force the tape end will adhere. With the tape lying flat and no unraveling, it’s time to pat yourself on the back. CONGRATULATIONS!
Just In Case
Another way of parting the tape that works for me is to hold the nipple still, left thumb firmly on tape, and wind up the spool, tightly, until the rims of the spool contact the nipple, and then keep winching on the spool until the tape parts. When attempting either parting technique, with the cheap stuff, when it parts, there can be an ‘explosion’ of micro-fine, wispy, strands of PTFE floating in the air with some still attached to both pieces, stretching like boardwalk salt-water taffy as you try to break it/them. There are other unsatisfactory aspects to the cheap stuff. If the side of the spool does not have the Mil-Spec # or the A-A- sequence, it’s the imposter. This stuff is rarely wound onto the spool in level wraps and it often, what PtP calls ‘gutter-balls’, slides into the gap between tape edge and inside wall of the spool. Once it has done this, it is no longer in tape form. Several inches of tape have become string. You cannot get a ‘string’ end to adhere to the already wrapped threads. And, it makes for awkward moves to join fitting and pipe and vice/versa, without having the tape unravel during the engagement. Another futile effort, like trying to put toothpaste back into the tube: putting the roll cover back on the spool of the cheapest of the cheap is an open ended finger exercise. Forget it. It was a one-time joint. Without the spool cover a good portion of this roll will many times unwind between needs, and, be wasted. Finally but not a finally: the cheap stuff, when held up to view, looks the color of skim milk compared to the cream of quality.
What If I Wrap The Tape On Backwards?
If you do not follow the spiral direction of the threads (clockwise when staring down the barrel) upon engagement, in most cases, the ribbon tape is scraped up into a leading wave of white, a bow-wave, forming at the edge of the fitting, making for a dry and leak compromised joint. I don’t know anyone who hasn’t done this even long after they thought they “had it down.” You’ll be excused. It won’t affect your grade. It’s gonna happen. But NOW you know how to make it right.
What About Oily Threads?
O.K., the former exercise was performed on a clean, PVC threaded nipple. What about galvanized or black steel pipe? The answer lies in whether you are buying the pipe pre-threaded in lengths of one through ten feet, and using store-bought nipples, or are you making your own threads with your own threading equipment?
Store purchased sticks/sections and nipples are usually acceptably oil-free and other than inspecting the threads prior to engagement, the ribbon can usually be applied without a further cleaning of the male threads. When making your own lengths and nipples, however, usually there is enough residual oil in the threads that it is a good idea to wipe the excess off before applying the tape.
How Many Makes For A Bum Wrap?
You will see in ‘the literature’ recommendations that 3 wraps of tape is recommended. The author finds his described process is foolproof because he also applies a thin application of paste joint compound to the threads of female fittings. When working with DWV female ABS plastic threads (FIP adapters) and ABS p-trap union threads, the pipe joint compound has to also be PTFE. (See below.)
For most applications, sans the paste, I am in agreement with the 3 wrap stipulation if you do not want to employ my above method. However, when you encounter broken and/or ‘slightly’ damaged threads, metal or plastic, it’s O.K. to apply more wraps. Again, as I mentioned upstream, one of the few times/places that I sometimes forgo the use of tape is on the fine threads of 1¼- and 1½-in. threaded brass tail pieces under sinks and tub waste & over-flows, if I have any difficulty engaging these threads. They are so fine and shallow that it is possible, too easily, to cross-thread the parts. Here, on metal parts, without the use of tape, I use either Hercules® Brush-On BLOCK™ paste thread sealant or Rectorseal® #8 thread sealant. If ABS plastic parts are involved, male or female or in any combination, the author employs Rectorseal T Plus 2™ paste (PTFE) sealant. DO NOT USE the Rectorseal® #8 WITH ABS, IT CAN DEFORM THE THREADS. On PVC pipe and fittings, because the material has great chemical resistance, the #8 is O.K.
O.K. I think we’ve covered most of the bases except for mentioning a few “special cases.” The first one I’ll mention will be: PVC pipe, nipples and fittings.
This plastic, PVC, is so slippery to begin with that when adding PTFE ribbon tape to the mix, ole Gorilla Mitts used to occasionally split fittings by over-tightening them, by hand. Two-pairs of 10- or 12-in. slide-jaw pliers (See The Straight Poop, A Plumber’s Tattler, or…either of my Taunton soft-covers to view these pliers. They’re also shown in the newly Revised PEX Edition, Plumbing A House, e-version.) These two tools allow you, with the aid of PTFE ribbon and paste, and a handsaw for plastic or a chop-saw with a blade for plastic, to assemble threaded Schedules #40 and #80 PVC pipe & fittings, up to 1½- and 2.0-in. in diameter, with perhaps a little too much ease.
Second loose end. When taping pipe and nipples for metallic fuel gas systems, make sure to start wrapping the tape on, one thread higher up than we did for our PVC practice nipple. If you create ribbon slivers (which you do not want on gas and compressed air systems, which we touched upon up-stream), it’s when you run your tape too close to, or overlap the first, beginning thread. A little swipe with the pipe joint compound’s ‘BRUSH IN CAP’ brush, across the female threads of the female fitting, will make up for the naked first thread, and even further your chance for fewer or no leaks.
Third loose end. When taping the male threads of 1¼- and 1½-in. ABS and PVC trap adapters (sink wastes), run the tape well enough past (overlap) the first thread on the end of the male fitting to allow you to fold the tape over and roll it down the inside of the inlet barrel of the adapter for maybe an ⅛ to ¼ in. Regardless of whether you employ the beveled nylon slip-joint washer (Installing And Repairing Plumbing Fixtures) or the now common, combination (one piece)‘beveled-nylon washer and slip nut’, or, the simple, old-fashioned, square-cut, rubber slip nut washer in combination with the chromed brass tail piece, this ‘tape-tuck job’(wish it’d be as easy for my bulge) provides a solid bonus to attain the ‘No Leakers Club’ membership.
Fourth And Last. (Not because I exhausted the list, but because I fear I’ve over-challenged your patience.) Some of you may want to become handy at residential plumbing maintenance or maybe you live with tub and shower valves (or wide-spread lavatory faucets) that employ standard, compression washers on screw stems, and you want/need to do ‘drip repair duty.’ This type of valve employs packing nuts. (See: The Straight Poop.) When adding string packings around the stems, under this nut, do the same as we did for the trap adapters: wrap the tape fully over the threads and then overlap so you can fold it under the bottom edge of the nut. This helps to evenly apply pressure to the packing for better stem-leak protection. See ‘The Poop’ for wrench use adjustments.
Well you know what? If you’ve hung with me all the way down to here, you also deserve your own growler of Newcastle Pale.
Adiós Amigos. Let’s meet up again.
Pete the Plumber has an apology this time around for any plumbers visiting In The Pipe. This post deals with a topic which will surely bore you to tears, so maybe you wanna skip this one and check back in
another month. For the non-plumbers and the ‘basically curious’, the author believes this post will prove worth your reading time.
The plumbers of today would have a harder time making ‘things’ work if PTFE (Teflon™) hadn’t been invented. But it was. And, plumbers love the stuff, whether in the form of ribbon, paste, string-packing, or flat, rigid shapes (faucet washers; large-hole, thin, friction washers (for valve spouts and shower heads); and, many internal valve components/cartridges utilize it. Since the application of ribbon-tape- to-male-threads is now so basic to the plumbing trade, and since so many laymen botch the job of applying it, the author felt he should attempt to ‘put that topic to bed’, for good. With this post he’s going to try and send you away with probably the most basic trick in the plumber’s bag. It will be
‘a-bit-of-a-hike’ for the person not wanting to know more than some basic facts about what no longer exists: Teflon™ tape. So, the first push of this article will merely be a background focus. But for those with the stamina, on the second push I’ll tell you how to be more successful using “Teflon™” Tape, That Isn’t.
The Tape That Isn’t, And Why Plumber’s Love It So Much
Isn’t? What’s this “isn’t”? Well, that’s a fun question to answer, if you’ll grant me the privilege. The author admits he’s an antique and/but his recall predates “Teflon™” tape. The now ubiquitous, ribbon-form, white (originally) pipe thread sealant, like many other great inventions, eventuated from a failed lab experiment. Prior to the early 1960’s, civilian plumbers had only oil-based pastes, and fibers (flax and hemp) to seal threaded piping systems.
When you hear the word plumbing, what first comes to mind? Besides that. For many it’s pipes and water. Back in ’38, plumbers had fewer piping choices than they have today. For waste systems, inside buildings, then, it was ‘bell and spigot’ cast iron joined by oakum and molten lead. For water systems it was malleable iron and steel and brass. (Lead, for supply, in-building, by this time was nearly extinct.) The iron/steel and brass were/are joined by the utilization of male and female threads. Today in the residential sector there are additional fresh water piping choices: schedules M, L and K copper, CPVC, PEX, Hypertherm 2399, and who knows what’s next. These “modern” choices utilize flame; solvents and cements; insert fittings/compression rings; and, push fittings. A relative late comer is the Press System which utilizes copper, steel and PEX piping and proprietary fittings joined by extreme pressure via specialized, electric tools. These later choices are thread-less methods. So, basically, plumbers employ the ribbon tape that isn’t on Threads. (But not only for fuel gas and pressurized water, the stuff is indispensable for threads found in gravity DWV systems also.) Downstream the author gives the reader a little insight on threads, an invention of antiquity (3000 + yrs. ago?) one born with plumbing (irrigation) in mind.
Now Why It Isn’t
A very smart young man named Roy J. Plunkett (from simple Ohio beginnings), graduated in 1927 from high school and had gone off to Manchester College, Indiana, showing real promise in the study of chemistry, earning his B.A. Then it was off to Ohio State University for his M.A. and PhD. There he met another very smart young man, Paul Flory (who later won the Nobel for chemistry). They were roommates at OSU. I can just imagine the dinner prep/KP discussions those two had. Both reached pinnacles in the chemistry world of polymers (rubbers and ‘plastics’) (Tom Thumb moments).
The epochal chemistry moment we’re concerned with, the discovery of PTFE occurred in 1938 when we find Plunkett in the employ of the newly minted DuPont Company. In short, what Roy J. Plunkett concocted was a pasty white powder, and possibly the world’s slipperiest material (polytetrafluoroethylene.) Like many great inventions it was discovered before there was a market for it. What Plunkett had accidentally done was to polymerize tetrafluoroethylene (gas) into polytetrafluoroethylene. Between 1938 (“April 6, 1938”) and 1945, when it was patented, there was a lot of cooking-pushing-poking-stretching. It’s official, copyrighted , commercial name, now held by Chemours Co., is Teflon™.
PTFE was first put to work in munitions fuses and in a degree of liquid form, as a hi-tech R & D sealant. Its first and biggest customer was our ‘Dear Uncle’. He needed this miracle at work for his fledging aerospace (Defense in general) (no-pun), industry. As an almost paste form it was used to seal rocket sections. (How many remember the other “Ride Sally, Ride”?) That nightmare was a neoprene o-ring failure between rocket sections. It’s ironic that PTFE is as deeply entwined within the Plumbing Industry as Buna-N neoprene.
Anyway, you’ll notice (this is a test) that the miracle material PTFE in tape form is not advertised as Teflon™ Tape. All you will see mentioned on the spool sides is PTFE. There is no “Teflon™” tape. That name now belongs to Chemours, (a related company) and they do not make Teflon™ tape. (And they want everyone to know this and desist from identifying PTFE, in any form, as Teflon™. (I think Du Pont once did sell the tape and called it Teflon™.) They’ll sell you their powders to manufacture it yourself if you go through the legal hoops. My memory on this subject of tape form goes back to the late fifties and early sixties. I “think” I remember seeing the words Teflon™ and DuPont, spelled out, on spools of the stuff but according to the literature that is not conclusive. That “imaginary?” spool, I think I remember, was designed not to be opened; it was shaped like a tape measure, with a flat bottom, and “tape” dispensed out of a slot. In this case there was a built-in sharp blade that cleanly cut the exceptionally thick tape in two, by squeezing the plastic spool. The author has worked in several labs, government and private, which would have used top quality but I can’t recall in which camp it was encountered.
The tape is, as you well know, sold in several widths (and colors.) The most common for plumber/homeowner is the ½-in. width. I’ll use this width for threads (it has other uses, too) up to 1½-in. pipe size even though you see recommendations in the literature for wider tapes here. The number of wraps to make is determined by the length of threads and the tolerances of the parts to be joined. For 2-in. pipe and above it’s more convenient and quicker to use ¾- or 1.0-in. wide tape. The author has read recommendations by the manufacturers and other plumbers for distinct tape widths for distinct pipe diameters. The author can successfully fit 2-in. pipe with ½- in. wide tape. It’s the coverage depth (thickness) that is the concern here. It does take longer to wrap the ½-in. for the larger pipe sizes but this does not mean you must adhere to these printed width-to-diameter tables. The ultimate arbiter is NO LEAKS! Also, the medium that’s going to be flowing in the new system figures into how I apply the stuff, which I will tell you about downstream.
I have no figures to substantiate my hunch, but I think the pipe trades, or for a better choice: the sealing of threads (many kinds, many industries/occupations), constitutes a major activity that TPFE manufacturers satisfy. (Though the author once applied (with many, tiny, bronze, flat-head screws), long, half-in. wide strips of PTFE, ¼-in. thick, on the bottom of a wooden two-man kayak, so as to paddle rocky riffles.) The boat was named by a friend, its builder (not PtP): Agape. (My friend was a highly religious fellow.) Never knew for sure though, whether it was the boat’s name or all of the PTFE bottom strips, but Agape had a long and exciting career. It was never wrecked. A flood took it away. (But the speed, smoothness and durability with which you rode on boulder and cobble was easily discernible from that of wooden bottoms. I had to be certain it was beached on level ground and tethered, or you could turn around to find it racing back into the water.)
In the author’s first published pedagogy (The Straight Poop, A Plumber’s Tattler) he attempted, in text and through a series of rather amateurish, artistically illustrated hands, to show how to apply ribbon tape to a pipe nipple. I don’t know how much the drawings helped, but The Straight Poop, A Plumber’s Tattler is still viable, and available on the used market.
Threads and Nipples
They can be long, short, from tiny diameter to large. (In my early days in the trade, any pipe, any pipe material, longer than 12” was referred to as a “section” or “stick”.) Up to 12 inches was a nipple. What was common to all steel (no HVAC), and brass ones though were threads. Have you ever given much thought to threads? No, not your fine duds, but the modern day extrapolation of Archimedes’s screw, possibly our earliest example of functioning threads, which he incorporated into a water pump. This Archimedes, another real smart guy, was born in Syracuse, Sicily, in 287 BC. (He died in 212 BC.) The actual invention date of his world benefiting hand carved wooden screw (threads born?) is not known, for sure. Its origins go way back. One British researcher, Stephanie Dalley from the Oriental Institute, Oxford, deciphered cuneiforms of King Sennacherib (Assyrian) describing the casting of brass water screws 350 years before Archimedes’s wooden one. But modern day adaptations can be found in power drills, snowblowers, augers, harvesters, concrete pumps, and the list goes on.
I’ve read Archimedes came to his screw water pump invention just as a major drought was gripping Europe and parts of Asia. A water pump, like Archimedes’s design, using a long screw and long outer tube or pipe, carved with close enough tolerances, lifted canal water much more efficiently than by man and bucket. (He developed his screw after visiting Egypt, where it might already have been in use.) Today when we apply PTFE, both tape and paste, to male (and especially in our case) male iron pipe threads (MIP), it’s done to both take advantage of PFTE’s slipperiness to counteract the friction of threads-in-mesh, allowing good thread purchase (engagement), but also its sealing quality, filling in the gap between non-precision (perfect) mating threads. The author will go into application details downstream for those curious. Paste PTFE is applied to female threads as well, but there are some tweaks here and I’ll cover those in another post, sometime.
When a non-plumber holds a threaded nipple or a “stick” of manufactured steel/malleable pipe in their hands, they could be forgiven for believing that it is perfectly round. But it is not. It is though, expected to be within close approximation. The out-of-roundness varies by manufacturer. The industry standard of acceptance for near-roundness is one percent deviation per diameter of pipe. The author can sometimes pick up a stick and detect one that ‘got by’ Quality Control. The more degree out of round a threaded pipe or nipple is, the more resistance (per friction) is encountered when engaging (threading) on a threaded fitting, or vice-versa. Female threads in fittings that are an unacceptable degree of roundness are no less problematic. This can mean the necessity of employing bigger, heavier (more tiring) pipe wrenches for joinery than ‘should’ be necessary. And it means increased possibility of leaks.
Other Smart Fellows
Did you know that in 1841 a ‘Brit’ by the name of Joseph Whitworth (1771-1852, inventor of a metal lathe) did something that radically altered the pace of mechanical progress (most appreciated by plumbers)? Whitworth was an inventor with ‘noble’ machinist skills. At the time, “machinists” and other craftsmen were making threads that for some personal reason they favored above other possibilities. There was no standardization. The thread may have differed in as many ways as those creating them. Whitworth forever changed this. It was his and the world’s good fortune that the thread he produced on his-invented lathe was eventually adopted by the railroads of the time, and became known as the British Standard Whitworth. He was not modest about his accomplishment either. In his memoirs he had the following to say about his lathe: ….”worth all the other tools in use in any workshop in the world, for finishing, machining brass and iron.” With his invention, at an opportune time, the screw cutting lathe allowed a standard to be defined and maintained. (The patent on Whitworth’s lathe expired in 1812.)
Another smart guy, William Sellers, an American, years behind Whitworth, in 1864, presented a paper to the Franklin Institute in Philadelphia proposing a new thread standard for the United States. He changed Whitworth’s thread angle from 55 to 60 degrees and altered the tip and valley shapes. This thread design eventually became the United States Standard thread. In time it underwent further refinements to father: NC (National Course), NF (National Fine), and in our interest: NPT (National Pipe Taper).
Of the threads on which plumbers mostly apply PTFE ribbon tape, male iron pipe threads (MIP), (which are National Pipe Taper) are undoubtedly coarser and of less precision than thread found in say the automotive and mechanical fields. These ‘plumber’s’ tapered threads (male and female) form a high friction wedge seal, upon meshing (completing engagement). It’s (or was) common to refer to this completed connection as being married. Not all threaded pipe encountered in the market, with so many suppliers, has threads of equal high quality. When making your own, on equipment not properly maintained, sub-standard quality threads happen a lot, which are more prone to leaks. With quality threads (both male pipe and female fitting), some brands can be pre-assembled with mere gloved hands. Some you can barely get two threads in-mesh without use of ever longer and heavier wrenches. This could be the fault of the male OR the female threads, or BOTH. (On your unlucky days it can be both.)
No amount of liquid/paste pipe joint compound, even PTFE versions, applied to male or female threads, or both, affords the same ease of assembly as PTFE ribbon on male, solo, IF the tape is of high quality. Thank you, thank you, thank you Roy J. Plunkett.
Tape Quality And Color
What makes for high quality in PTFE ribbon tape? A number of things but the two foremost are content ratios of PTFE (purity) and thickness. This differs markedly between tape manufacturers. Early in the ‘PTFE-into-tape’ process it was realized that a thickness standard needed to be established.
Uncle Sam, the first and biggest customer, had his requisites: 3.5 mils thick and 99% purity (of PTFE): MIL-T-27730 A. Much of the ‘industry’ (honest ones) adheres to that or a newer specification: A-A-58092 which also requires the 3.5 mil thickness and purity levels but adds a density requirement of 1.2g/cm3.
The author can still remember the day when a Will-Call clerk (John Paul) shoved a roll of yellow ribbon tape at me from across his counter: “For Nat. gas….new Oakland reg.” (Some community inspectors want to also see yellow tape for LPG fuel gas.) Up until then it had just been one color: white. Turns out a gent (Bill Bentley) I believe in England, had come up with a color code for tape used in different applications. Me suspects what happened…I’ll wager: Some skin-flint plumber trying to conserve on an at-the-time quite pricy supply item (PTFE Ribbon Tape) used insufficient amounts on a gas job and dodged inspection, and at some point the system failed and there was fire and or injury or both. (Greed knows no race or borders.) (Sorta like a standard where cities wait for ten wrecks at an intersection before spending the bucks for stop signs.) The author had been using the proper amount of quality (USA) white tape for inspected water, gas, and threaded DWV, for years, without any problems.
The tape became colored to keep plumbers honest and purchasing 3.5 Mil, high-purity, high-density and allowed inspectors to know the plumbers were behaving. (The purple color of PVC primer and the pink of ABS-to-PVC transition cement are other examples where color was added to assure regulations compliance.) A pink color, connoting 3.5 Mil/99% pure, for general use, was the first color experiment the author recalls. This color for ribbon tape could only be given to quality manufacturers making stuff such as A-A-558902. If the offshore outfits had tried pinking their junk stuff I’m sure there would have been grounds for serious trade ramifications. (We have entered a Public Safety realm, here.) Did this guarantee that there’d be no leaks? Answer: No. (That’s a case for workmanship.) But, it improved the odds for fewer failures. Mill-Rose (good stuff) makes a blue tape (Blue Monster) which is in good part a marketing strategy, but not an official requirement for any particular type of piping (until some senior building inspector adds it to his community’s Local Code). But it is even thicker than 3.5 Mil. (4.0). Look on the outside of any quality spool for the thickness figure and Mil spec numbers or hopefully A-A-58092. The cheap stuff has only PTFE noted, with no thickness or content figures; and, there’s next only the country of origin noted.
Two other color standards were popularized: green for oxygen (can’t have any oils involved) and gray for stainless steel piping systems. The gray has microscopic particles of nickel mixed in which functions as an anti-galling (anti-seize) component. Unless you’re plumbing lab/hospital-medical/R&D you need not concern yourself with gray or green. These colors are for the U.S.; other countries have their own color schedules. For instance, in England green is for water.
In the literature I have seen red flags for using ribbon tape on compressed air. On high pressure lines, if too much tape is used the joint can fail (with much dramatic effect) by separating, dangerously. Also, when creating systems, any type, threads can cut tiny slivers of tape and send them down stream. For water it’s not a big deal because good plumbers remove valve cartridges, shower heads, faucet aerators, toilet fill-valve seals and regulator screens prior to charging their systems and the slivers (and other “line trash”) are flushed out. In the case for fuel gas (and compressed air) slivers can easily be ‘blown’ into difficult-to-access, fine-mesh screens in regulation equipment. (I have advice for you on this topic, downstream, in the second push.)
Tit For Tat
Another benefit to the coloring idea was a leveling of the economic playing field. After the market for the original, standard, quality 3.5 Mil white tape had grown to a size to attract fierce competition, certain countries (I won’t mention names) began selling “at first appearance” look-a-like tape with much less thickness, purity, and density, and of course at a much cheaper price as well as quality. Some of these off-shore outfits resorted to pricking the thinner cheap stuff with pricking equipment as it was extruded to “fluff” it up, in order to claim a thicker thickness than it really was. By coloring the quality stuff it differentiated it from the bogus. I am sure there are smaller, independent makers of quality tape, in a number of countries, but because piping systems are so labor intensive and time consuming to break down and re-fit, here’s a good place not to cut corners. PtP has used pink Mill-Rose brand (U.S.) for decades and found it ‘top drawer’, on water, gas, and DWV. I’ve also used their of-late, thicker Blue Monster line too, but still prefer the 3.5 Mil tape for some uses.
HOT TIP: The author does use the thin cheap offshore ½-in wide ribbon tape for ONE application: the fine male threads on 1¼-in. lavatory threaded tail pieces and the same fine male threads on 1½-in. threaded tailpieces, applicable to kitchen sink waste components and bath waste & overflow tailpieces. These threads are so shallow that the thicker quality tapes are too thick. Because of the extreme slipperiness of PTFE you can easily cross-thread these components. If the author has more than just a couple of failed attempts to achieve ‘threads in mesh’ (engagements) with these components, even without suffering thread damage, I remove the tape and use only pipe joint compound in its stead, with customary success. In a future post I’ll get around to telling you my preferences for pipe joint compounds, and why. (See: Installing And Repairing Plumbing Fixtures.)
Well, that’s the end of the ‘beginner’s hike’, the first push. All who want, “It’s to the showers”! But any thru-traveling die-hard masochists are going to love what follows.
Part 2 - Coming soon...stay tuned.
Whoa, whata month it’s been. Fires and floods and hurricanes. Pete the Plumber is back in his winter abode, in the parched dry mountains of Northern California. Could go up in smoke at any time. (A lightening strike, a car or truck back-firing, or a weed eater/lawnmower incident and I’m headed for the door, with my birth certificate, SS Card, passport and my new boots.) Why can I be so cavalier? I’m single with no pets; a renter; not a clutter bug, and have good insurance. I hear they can always use a good plumber in Pago-Pago anyway…
It’s more than ironic that this post is a topic which I mention in my book, and as I wrote it almost two years ago, has come to pass, in spades. At the bottom of my site’s opening page I had referred the reader to my story: Me And Angie. My obsession with water flow, both as plumber and CFD fireman, got the better of me and I lectured the reader about the importance of having a generous sill cock/hose bib supply, for this very contingency. When alloy car wheels melt like wax in spite of your best efforts there is little one can say. However, from reads and video Pete the Plumber saw many instances where if dwellings had been plumbed as he suggests in the book, he believes many could have been saved from fire.
During the Oakland, CA Fire Storm of October, 1991, 2,843 single family homes and 437 Apartment/Condominiums were destroyed. (Kept my nose to the stone for years afterwards.) One development, right gob-smack in the middle of the burn, was left standing. Why? It was a very new collection of high dollar custom homes and condos. The project had one developer, who owned all the land, and dictated that every structure was exteriorly sprinkled. The evacuated neighborhood returned to perfectly intact housing, on a moonscape. No one lost anything.
It so happens I had written a post on valve packing and packings, for this time at bat, but because we’re not outta the woods yet with fire concerns I decided to bring attention, once again, to my favorite sill cock. Pictured (Photo 1) is American Valve Company’s ¾ in. bent-nose ball-valve, hose cock. It is this plumber’s hunch that if you had supplied your home with a one-in. (long bends), full-circuit, 65 PSI or higher (up to 80 psi.) cock/hydrant supply, serving four or more American M74QT’s, feeding one-in. I.D. quality ‘contractor’s’ RUBBER hoses, powering sprinkling devices from the roof and grounds, you’d a probably been feeling quite magnanimous as you cut the next check to the water company. (You can slide a good Cuba into one of these.)
On my CFD assigned Mack pumper, right behind the cab, topside, were two large hose reels. One reel contained high pressure 1 in. I.D. and it’s twin, a high pressure 1 &1/2 in. I.D., both layered, cord reinforced, RUBBER hoses. Yes, even the one-inch is much larger and understandably heavier than the typical, cheap, vinyl, 5/8 in. (usually with kinks) residential garden hose. But you don’t hunt Kodiaks with a 22 caliber. As described in the book, the M74QT, supplying one-inch I.D. rubber, hosted by the Coxreels.com models suggested, is comfortable beef to withstand the duty. This is due to the construction quality of all involved. Notice (Photo 2) the cock’s large, notched-flanged base. This is a “sill” flange, meant to be firmly anchored to the sill or wall.
Adrenaline has a dramatic effect on your musculature. If you have one of these mentioned hoses attached to a sleaze bag ½ in. compression hose bib on Type M copper, you could be so charged-up yourself that you rip the bib with some pipe attached right outta and off the structure. No laugh. It’s been done. But no worries with the properly secured QT’s. From steam plumbing days Pete the Plumber has embraced ‘beef’ brass and stainless steel fasteners. And the QT’s flanges stay put. Permanently. No loosening, rusted hardware either with SS & Brass. Depending upon your winter conditions, these hydrants can be freeze protected with quality insulated armoring (rigid foam/insulated fabric) devices available on the net or at your local plumbing supplies.
Another design aspect that I like about the QT is it’s squat profile. (Photo 2). The closer the hose connection is to the building the better. I did not have a ¾ in. FIP QT the night I shot art for the book so I used an Champion ½ in. male ball-valve cock just to demonstrate the anchoring process. It was a quality valve but not my first choice way of doing things. Look at what a beef passage looks like: (Photo 3 and 4). Aside from the Champion being only a ½-in. valve, my concern was how far it projected from the wall. The longer, the more prone to leverage.
If you’re building a house or doing a major remodel, you’re already spending so many bucks that PtP feels it’s foolishness not to carry through with the comparatively cheap insurance of one-inch supply for four or five QT’s, serving quality, one- in. I.D cord-reinforced, rubber hose, hosted on the reels suggested. For the life of the structure and possibly your own it’s a small price for insurance and some piece of mind to boot.
PtP lived in the back woods for a spell on the Trinity River and plumbed, in copper, a roof sprinkler system supplied by a Honda high-pressure fire pump which sat sixty-feet below the cliff, at the river. I could and did start the pump and evacuated twice when blazes got too close for comfort. Into the kayak and down river with a wet towel on my head. Eves and soffits, though, are the Achilles’ Heel for structures that have them. (Some properly spec’d insulation with cladding over, is another money-best-spent idea.)
One last note. Firemen don’t leave their rolling stock parked outside in daylight any longer than necessary. Sunlight on rubber for long periods, be it tires or hoses, is not a good idea. If you are a bloke who decides to make this sound investment in plan and equipment, the author highly recommends that you purchase drape-over hose reel covers and underwrite this foresight. Coxreel should be able to steer you to a supplier of covers. And I guarantee you, no matter how much more your neighbors spent for their houses, with these (Photos 1 and 4), and Coxreel, you could cause someone an itch.”
An Afterthought : I wish American Valve would offer an up-grade (M74QTSSHN ?) of stainless steel handle and acorn nut for coastal installations.
Ohhh, for all of you who suffer hard water. My sincerest sympathies. Pete the Plumber lives where he can still put his face in crystal creeks and drink his fill, with no worries. But 85 percent of the US has hard (>121MG/L) water, and I do have a good buddy living fifty-miles over the mountain, who’s stuck with (‘hard-on-the-nose’), very over-mineralized deep-well water.
Attending a trade show recently, one of the exhibits was something that really caught my eye. I immediately thought of my buddy, for he has gone through numerous water softeners. On a display table was what you are looking at, the Housetron, by Fluid Dynamics USA. It is a conditioner that functions catalytically without electricity, moving parts or salts. (Basically it’s a stainless steel pipe with a special catalytic ‘corkscrew’ run down the center). The pipe has NPT (National Pipe Thread) male ends. It being stainless steel, no dialectic unions/couplings are required for installation with steel or copper pipe.
With a Housetron installed on the main service, my friend could kiss good bye the electrical-salt expense of operating traditional softeners. Even if he wanted to keep his softeners, the Housetron would greatly reduce the cost of salt and cycling frequency.
For the worst case hard water situation what I foresee is maybe two of them, joined with a brass union and also unions at both ends. Used in conjunction with an up-stream and down-stream isolating ball valve, the system could be opened up and the Housetrons removed, (if needed) cleaned, and put back in service very quickly, without having to shut off mains or pumps.
For many long years Pete the Plumber envied the ‘sparkie’s’ relative ease of sending Romex and cable through bored holes in stud, plate, rafter and joist. My copper, steel, iron, and rigid DWV required time consuming, precision layout. Well, for threaded steel, I can now play like the sparkie. A little bit late (in years), but I finally went down to one of my wholesale plumbing supplier’s and attended a workshop on installing CSST, or “Corrugated Stainless Steel Tube”. This very flexible fuel gas material was developed in Japan in the 1980’s. I’ll wager it was an earthquake generated idea. Anyway, this corrugated stainless steel tubing, with a non-metallic cover “……which provides ease of running through joists, studs, and other building components” (TracPipe/CounterStrike by OmegaFlex) now enables plumbers to mimic the ‘sparkie’ when installing fuel gas systems. Could have taken that class years ago. Why did I wait so long? Probably because of general laziness and a pre-investment in a lot of other tooling for threading steel pipe.
The incident that finally “broke the camel’s back” was a new gas line for a 3M ‘fixer-upper’. It t’was the epitome of “The Money Pit”. The worst of the job was under the house, crawling around on my belly, like swimming, long distances, and doubling around and squeezing* through cripple walls on grade beams. No convenient foundation vents to avail either. Plumber, tools, black steel pipe, and fittings accessed that under-portion of the home through a basement opening. Even if I had been running coiled PEX, instead, it still would’a been a huge pain. Realizing how quickly I could have been in-and-out with CSST, Pete the Plumber decided it was past time to check it out. I had a couple month wait for the workshop.
After partaking the two-hour work shop and a short, 20 question test, myself and a half-dozen other plumbers received our Certification card. With it we can now purchase this brand of CSST at suppliers who offer it. This company (OmegaFlex) (www.omegaflex.com) chooses not to trade with the general public, only with plumbers. I can see why. (Better have a gargantuan liability insurance policy). It’s not because of any difficulty assembling their systems. Matter of fact, it is so easy.
All one needs are two Crescent wrenches and a quality tubing cutter with a cutting wheel designed for the task. That’s the rub. (To the untrained, it so appears.) But to be successful cutting the tubing, with a sanctioned tubing cutter, requires past experience with tubing cutters, a great deal more than you could expect from the ‘man off the street’. That’s not to say that a bright beginner could not be trained to safely use this technology. The factory rep who put on the workshop, if with some attention to the operation of different choices in tubing cutters, on his product, could show a mechanically adept non-plumber how to safely assemble it. With the Design and Installation Guide, the illustrated Parts List, and easy to understand slide rule sizing tool, experienced plumbers adapt with ease.
There are some proprietary brackets and components that I assume the three or four competing companies also have versions of, or close to. Like the PEX manufacturers, there is no intermixing product lines. The fittings are all proprietary, and there are actual outside tubing diameter differences between manufacturers. So like PEX, you gotta stick with one brand. I liked OmegaFlex’s TracPipe because it has higher Btu flow rates, per pipe size, than it’s competitors; its various brass fittings are high quality; has well-designed installation support (text and ill.), beefy protective hardware; and, it’s manufactured in the USA. When will Pete the Plumber likely employ this additional piping technology? Probably not before being faced with another horrid crawl job. But if and when that day comes, I know what I’m gonna do, then.
An afterthought: I wonder if the damage of Hurricane Harvey (and his inevitable siblings) could spotlight CSST for its speed of installation, when there’s a need for re-creating housing at warp speed?
Pete the Plumber once had to have the Oakland, CA Fire Department come to a job where he was stuck under a house. Yep, tried too hard to crawl between cripples on a grade beam and swelled up. The brave rescuers, after cutting off as much of my clothing as they could, then hosed me down with a slippery, gooey foam. It took three of them to pluck me free. Ever since then, when under a house looking for a hopefully crawlable cripple wall, I hope the 40 pounds I’ve lost since that embarrassing episode will keep me free.
Yours truly had promised a further rant under the heading : Brass Is Best.
Pete the Plumber wagers that all occupations are saddled by a human, species-wide inclination to ‘Get One Over’ on the prospective consumer. In the plumbing supplies industry, one of these human traits can manifest itself as any bare and/or electroplated steel, or ‘pot-metal’ parts/components.
The toilet related parts purveyors of last post, peddling the bogus steel were the first to be pilloried. There is no shortage of other rascals. But, one I’d like to discuss next is the escutcheon manufacturers. There is a phrase, that one of my generation used to hear often: ‘Old World Quality’. What exactly did this infer? Well, to me, it meant the fine reputations of trained craftsmen, throughout history, but especially those who toiled in the last four hundred years or so, was an assurance of at least an ‘honest’ degree of quality. What changed?
We humans were ‘gifted’ with the harnessing of electrical energy, among other things. One result was the electro-plating of metals. (Pete the Plumber once did work for a steam power R&D outfit. They created space-age steam power plants and designed vehicles to put them in. This included a metro-bus that was operated in California’s A/C Transit System.) That R&D company had its own plating shop. It was exclusively for plating moving parts with a metal that extended the working life of the part or assembly.) But, the technology also allowed industry to put chromium (and other metals) on steel, pot metal, wood, even plastic. (Think automobile bumpers, toys and lamp parts of years gone by.) But, from antiquity, we have learnt that other than vitreous/near-vitreous pottery/earthenware, only the metals gold, silver, copper, or brass/ bronze would resist the effects of close exposure to long term human hygiene practice.
Climates too can also contribute their effects. Plumbing escutcheons, not made of brass or stainless steel (or chromed plastic), in housing built near salt water environments suffers most quickly. Until not that many years ago all plumbing-trim escutcheons were made of brass or copper and chrome or nickel plated. That was the ‘old world’ way of doing things. Well, those days have flown the coup.
Today, so much trim and finish plumbing is owner-installed that escutcheons are not even thought of. In cabinets under bathroom and kitchen sinks what’s the big deal if the escutcheon is left off? Outta sight outta mind? They were intended to make a ‘sightly’ pest-barricade (and add flash to your installation). Only on ‘Finish Plumbing’ inspections will you find anyone interested in this topic, today. But, if the rough plumber installed the toilet’s water supply in the correct general area, then, with time, noticing the ‘unsightly’, corroding, plated steel escutcheon is the crow’s return to roost.
It wasn’t that many years ago that one could purchase chromed-brass ‘shower-arm’ escutcheons
(a standard ½-in. MIP size), and use them with brass nipples for closet/toilet and wall-hung and pedestal sink supply trim. But, like chocolate in candy bars, the volume of brass in brass shower arms has shrunk dramatically. As a result, standard brass nipples will no longer slide through the hole in a plated brass shower arm escutcheon. Drats. And, chromed brass ‘low-profile’ and ‘box’ escutcheons for trap arms are scarcer than great auks. Ragnar, at The Sink Factory in Berkeley, however, tells me they know where to find ‘old world’, nickel-on-brass, quality escutcheons.
In 2005 Pete the Plumber submitted a hair sample to test for heavy metals. The results were “off the charts” for arsenic, lead, cadmium, chromium, copper and a few other nice guys. It required abandonment of habits and chelation therapy to rectify. It’s now no more bending solder, with teeth, or, breathing fumes; and, it’s gloved hands before I get out of the truck and until I get back in.
One metal though, brass, an alloy, is one of a plumber’s better friends (in most water quality conditions). This is especially true when it comes to kitchen and especially bathroom ‘finish’ plumbing. I often wonder if insurance companies keep detailed records of the sources of their losses, to the nit, so I could ask them: “How many millions did you pay-out last year for water damage to bathrooms and kitchens, and also the floors and structure to adjacent rooms? And, how many claims from policy holders for such damage did you deny?
You know what? There is a metal that is guilty for a majority of those damages. You wanna guess what it is? Not a betting sport? Well, the answer is STEEL, coated, plated, or not. Most of this damage results from steel bolts and washers and nuts used to hold the toilet to the floor, and in the case of two-piece toilets, steel bolts, washers and nuts used to install the tank to the bowl.
Steel has no place, outside of the wall, in a bathroom. Why? It's big enemy? : urine, and moisture in general. If all men were “sitters” instead of “hip shooters” the situation would be somewhat less dire. But, toilet bowls anchored to floors, and tanks to bowls, with plated steel hardware, are time bombs. (If you could procure and view one of the early printings of Alexander Kira’s book, The Bathroom, it would be optically self-evident.) How can you tell whether the closet and tank bolts you purchased, separately, or those which came with your fixture, are solid brass or brass plated steel? Sometimes, without scraping the parts, it can be tricky to tell. The fail safe is a good magnet.
Want to guess the antidote for this folly? This evil practice that destroys so much property? This crime of greed committed by both unscrupulous manufacturer and distributor alike? The answer is: solid brass. NO MORE deceitful brass plated steel, that far too many purveyors of plumbing hardware peddle. Pete the Plumber has a saying: “Brass Is Best”. (And, “have a quality magnet on your key chain or in your pocket.”) I can’t tell you how many hundreds of structural and finish floor damaging, leaking/seeping toilets Pete the Plumber has dealt with, to date. Of those, the vast majority leaked because the installer had used brass plated steel anchor bolts and tank bolts, and plated steel washers and nuts. In a small, humid, often closed-off space constantly subjected to urine splash (Kira’s “The Bathroom”), the plated steel hardware “dissolves” with time.
In the case of the anchoring-to-floor bogus closet bolts, as the steel bolts and washers corrode away, the toilet begins to move, sometimes imperceptibly at first, and the wax seal is compromised. Then seepage begins and often before you know it wooden sub-floors begin to rot. On slab, the moisture can migrate under the tile or linoleum to the lower plates of the walls, rotting them. From there the moisture creeps up the walls in the gypsum board. In both instances this “water”, where it doesn’t belong, by itself damages the structure and puts out a clarion call to termites and other insect pests, not to mention molds. All this because of inferior parts that exist solely due to greed.
In the case of tank to bowl hardware for two-piece toilets, the inferior parts corrode away and let water seep/drip out of the tank under the rubber washers on the tank bolts, and from the foam rubber tank-to-bowl gasket. In the case where the toilet is set upon a sheet goods finish floor (see the author’s recommendations in his book: Installing And Repairing Plumbing Fixtures), the leak is often misdiagnosed as a wax seal failure because water escaping from the failed rubber washers and/or foam rubber gasket seal, adheres to the sides of the bowl, and gravity takes it to the floor where it pools around the base/foot of the bowl. l have, and almost everyone (including other plumbers), on one or more occasions first (mistakenly) suspected the wax seal had failed.
So, maybe after unnecessarily lifting and resetting the toilet you may discover (if you are fortunate), the tank-to-bowl leak. In many cases this leak can be tricky to detect. The author suggests that before you lift a toilet to replace a suspected failed bowl wax, that you test by using wads of toilet tissue held to the upper back and sides of the bowl as you flush the tank. Tanks joined to bowls with the inferior plated steel hardware may be rusted solid with no way of separating the tank and bowl without a grinder, from underneath, or in rare occasions, with a hacksaw blade, in-hand, placed between a sufficient gap between tank and bowl, if it exists. Grinding the nut and bolt from below without lifting the toilet and laying it on its side (with all the time and mess of preparation) can make for a stiff bill for a customer.
Did an installer, employing the inferior steel hardware, at the time, know that he/she was contributing to the early demise of their or someone else’s investment? This author’s guess is no, in most cases. However, I have witnessed merchants of marginal financial standing (and marginal conscience) selling only the bogus product.
What are the odds that the tank-to-bowl bolts shipped with a new, two-piece, boxed toilet are solid brass? And what about the flat washers and nuts? They too should be all-brass, nickel/chrome plated or stainless steel. Accept nothing else. The sleaze bag manufacturers who make brass plated steel and/or plain steel closet hardware (both bowl and tank) and the fixture manufacturers who ship this junk with their fixtures, are not your friends, to put it mildly. When you go shopping for a new fixture, ask that the tank carton be opened (in the case of a two-piece toilet) and use your magnet to test the tank-to-bowl hardware. They will come in a poly bag. With your quality magnet, you can tell if there are any duds without opening the bag. Detect any steel? If yes, politely tell them you will look elsewhere for your new fixture unless they provide you with solid brass bolts and nuts and solid brass or stainless steel washers.
The closet bolts, nuts, and washers used to anchor the bowl to the floor are not usually shipped with a new fixture. These you usually need to purchase separately. Whether you purchase them at a wholesale plumbing supplier or a hardware store, keep that magnet handy. Even solid brass closet bolts, both tank and bowl, when used with plated steel flat washers, and/or plated steel nuts, spell doom.
In my next post I will tell you about another instance where plated steel causes great angst and brass is best.
Since the early Pleistocene Pete the Plumber has been an ardent water conservationist. He used deep woods adventuring to instill in his four children, his Eco-values. Whether you believe in Global Warming or not, fresh water concerns are not liable to diminish until the late Anthropocene.
However, some real good news: Just the other day I was leafing through a magazine when I came across something that caught my breath. A titan of American enterprise, Colgate/Palmolive, has just championed a new water conservation theme: #Every Drop Counts. The advertising agency, Red Fuse, produced for them a gorgeous public service graphic (Pete the Plumber’s family blood is thick in advertising), that I hope serves as a model and beacon for other American mercantile giants.
If we now have such a ‘big hitter’ showing concern for ‘drops’, maybe our water future doesn’t have to remain so pessimistic. When you next purchase a C/P product, why not call their toll free, 800 number and tell someone how much you appreciate their message and good example.
Throughout mankind’s history he has crafted piping from a variety of materials. Wooden pipes were some of the very earliest and he continued this practice right up into the twentieth century. As every school child knows, the Romans created pipe from terra cotta and lead. And, throughout the history of pipes, they have been employed to both supply civilizing communities with water to drink and to drain away their wastes. In the Weingarten edition of Plumbing A House we look at one of the latest supply variety: PEX, and, from time to time, yours truly will be leaving here, In The Pipe, his thoughts on other new arrivals and various other aspects of the changing world of modern day plumbing.
According to the U. S. Geological Survey, the total amount of fresh water on earth (and that man has an opportunity to put into his pipes), comes to about 10.6 million cubic kilometers. If combined into a single droplet, this would produce a sphere with a diameter of about 272 kilometers. But, 99 percent of that sphere would be made up of ground water, a great deal of which is inaccessible. By contrast, the total volume from lakes and rivers, humankind’s main source, would produce a droplet of a mere 56 kilometers in diameter, not a pleasurable or reassuring thought.
Other specialists (1) extrapolate that about only 0.5 percent of the world’s fresh water resources are available for the needs of populations and Eco-systems. Peter Gleick, of the Pacific Institute, in Oakland, CA, estimates that we humans require 13.2 gallons of clean water per day. Is it surprising, according to Peter, that in 2005, Americans were consuming 98 gallons per day? American Exceptionalism? Certainly not in Eco-folly. (The cup of coffee that someone might be drinking while reading these paragraphs requires approximately 140 liters of water to produce.) (Guilt? Guilt? Guilt?)
Another reference to pipes: Boston was the first American city with a municipal waterworks, incorporated in 1652. The initial pipe line supplying water to the waterfront ran from Jamaica Pond to the Faneuil Hall area. And in 1795, 15 additional miles of three and five- inch bore hemlock water main was added, expanding the system, which was credited with lowering the city’s death rate. (2)
Might this data have contributed to the saying: “The Plumber Protects the Health of the Nation”? (See poster above).
Speaking of wooden water mains, if you were thrown into the calaboose, as late as the closing decade in the 19th Century, in the raucous gold mining/timbering town of Weaverville, CA, you might have “chosen” (in the case of a better word), while whiling away your forced vacation from your brethren, to ply your hand at employing the five-foot long manual auger bits to bore, from both ends, the hemlock and elm logs used for the city’s growing system of mains. “Me wonders” if those who proved most proficient at this chore ‘somehow’ had their bail denied versus those who demonstrated less aptitude. If you ever visit that quaint, now quite touristy enclave, you might wish to visit the basement of the Jake Jackson Museum to view these crude augers leaning in a corner of some original (iron) walls of the historic calaboose. And during your visit, behave yourself, or maybe………“Me surmises” also that if it were again, say, 1900, most of the present day patrons of the town’s very lively drinking establishment, The Diggin’s tavern, would prove remarkably proficient with those augers.
(2.) National Drinking Water Clearing House, Kathy Jesperson
Brass Is Best
Peter Hemp is a San Francisco East Bay residential plumber and plumbing author and former R & D steam vehicle plumber. His hobbies are ocean kayaking and touring the Left Coast by bicycle.
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