This In the Pipe is a short one but close to Pete’s heart...
In a BBC’s: capital e-news issue, of May 2nd: “One Surprising idea to help solve a water crisis,” by Amanda Ruggeri, Pete the Plumber read and saw things that gave him goose bumps. Actually more. As a classroom plumbing instructor the biggest reward is seeing that ‘light bulb’ in someone’s eyes when I have managed to show them something new. If you’re a plumber and you view this article and are not deeply nudged, there’s something deficient in you.
Yours truly appreciated this story especially because he remembers the moment when his plumbing light bulb was switched on, and how the world was an altogether different experience thereafter because of it. And, equally enjoyable was witnessing this: the documenting of empowering women in a famously repressive social structure, through a shared life experience. Go Ladies Go!
Check out the article: www.bbc.com/capital/gallery/20180501-in-jordan-female-plumbers-fighting-a-water-crisis
In this post Pete the Plumber wants to address a topic which, on the surface, appears so straight forward; but, which under the surface can present you with much future agony. This subject is Kitchen Sink Basket Strainers.
Contrary to past posts where I excused plumbers from the class, this time around PtP has something to share with even plumbers who might not yet have (as the song goes): “…learned your lessons well.”
As we all know one can purchase a basket strainer from the ‘cheap’ to the: “sucks in your breath.” Between flagship brands to those unfamiliar ones with import-car-sounding names, it’s a head spinning number of choices. Of late the extra deep designs with large, deep strainers have met with some popularity.
There’s three basic methods employed to secure three basic basket strainer types to the sink, and depending upon the material of which your sink is made, one design type will be more suitable than the other type possibilities. The old dictum we all know: You Get What You Pay For applies to this situation, in spades.
Aside the type differences, materials used to manufacture the product are other distinguishing factors to consider. If you are uninformed on this subject you can inflict upon yourself or customer much headache pain and degradation ($$$$) to cabinets. Yours truly remembers all too well the numerous occasions where he had to employ Sawzall and grinder to extricate a failed piece of junk basket strainer which was leaking and corroded-in-place, where the possible need to replace the sink itself was a succinct possibility. Then, at a Braer Fox labor rate (dollar a minute) to rectify the predicament, where was the economy in purchasing the cheap versus the more expensive but quality made product? This is the focal point of …”learned your lessons well.” If you are the unfortunate plumber who is faced with this headache, or a homeowner faced with paying a plumber to rectify this situation, it will be a lesson you’ll never forget.
Pete the Plumber prefers quality, enameled cast iron sinks, whether single or double bowl, drop-in (self-rimming) or under-mount. The drain holes in cast iron sinks have a defined radius. There is no such radius with stainless steel sinks. There are basket strainers which have huge advantages for each of these applications. We can find varying quality with each type sold. As PtP mentioned in an upstream blog titled: Brass Is Best, dealing with toilet hardware and tubular brass trim, the same holds true for this subject. With just a little effort at comparisons you will note that the price of basket strainers (BS’s) is directly in relation to what they are made from. A solid brass basket (regardless of trim electroplating) with solid brass ring-mounting nut and solid brass tailpiece slip-nut can be up to seven times the price of a cheap stainless steel basket with Die Cast nuts or a plastic BS with plastic fastening hardware. Pay very close attention to the word: die cast wherever you run across it. (And hopefully become able to recognize it). Another name for it is misery. Die cast has no MORAL business in the plumbing realm. Wherever you find it, you eventually find failure and agony. It is a false economy, period. As for plastic versions in this application (even some so-called “designer” ones), maybe in my duck blind, but not for friends or business.
The author will now discuss how the three most popular types of baskets mount to the sink. The first and oldest design is the cast brass basket with external male threads on its side which is fastened to the sink with a large, threaded, female ring-nut, sealing gasket and friction gasket. (Photos 1 & 2)
The second most popular basket type employs a “nesting” bowl. (Photos 3 & 4)
This nesting bowl is slid up from under the sink and secured to the in-sink basket’s 1½-in. running thread discharge, with a “lock/mounting” nut. This type usually has a basket formed of stainless steel and a nesting bowl (outside one) of electroplated mild-steel. (Photos 4 & 5)
It is possible to find this design with a nesting bowl also of stainless steel (Photo 6) but, a chore to find one with basket and bowl both of stainless and the lock/mounting and slip-nut of solid brass. Given the choice the author would recommend the stainless basket/bowl with separate purchase (if necessary) of solid brass lock/mounting and slip-nut.
Though this Number Two type is easier to install than the Number One Type (solid brass basket with exterior male threads and large ring-nut first mentioned), but be cautious. Don’t be trying to do this in a hurry. Unless real care is used in the installation, a leak from under the in-sink lip of the basket will collect inside the lower nesting bowl, and if it’s a plated mild steel one will rust/corrode in a relatively short time. If your model also has die-cast lock/mounting and tailpiece slip-nut you may need a lot of patience to see you through a replacement. Such is the reason you find the models with both stainless basket and nesting bowl. If there is a leak from under the in-sink basket lip, the water will not corrode the SS nesting bowl. However, if you have a die-cast lock/mounting nut (Photo 7 ) not a solid brass one, in spite of stainless nesting bowl, you can still be in deep doo-doo for future corrosion leaks and when attempting removal. (See Installing And Repairing Plumbing Fixtures to learn how to get rid of this nut.)
Take a look again at the BS in Photo 6. This is a stainless basket and bowl. But look at what the lock/mounting nut and supplied slip-nut are made of: Die-cast. Unless you replace these die-cast nuts for solid brass ones you could be shooting yourself in the foot: paid extra for the stainless bowl but still got junk nuts and future leaks.
Take a good look at the slip-nuts in Photos 8 & 9. Aside the fact that you can see they are made from solid, un-plated brass, notice they have wrench flats around their circumference. These are wide and oval shaped.
Now look at the slip-nuts (Photos 10 & 11).
Aside from being electroplated, they have rectangular wrench flats; some, separate by short scallops like these. Photo 12 shows another die-cast wrench shape with rectangular wrench flats, without scallops. These shapes should set off warning bells! Ninety-nine percent (99%) of the nuts that are of these shapes, regardless of finish, are your enemy.
Notice the die-cast nut in Photo 13 has a brass resembling electroplating. Some hardware stores will sell solid brass slip nuts but rarely, also, the standard 1½-in. running pipe thread lock/mounting nut. If this is your case, go to a large, professional, plumbing supply and show these pictures to the Will-Call clerk and tell that person Pete the Plumber said, that because they (the plumbing supply) were the only source (you’re only bothering them for this reason), that if you paid cash (and did not request the bother of a receipt), they would probably agree to sell it or them, to you.
Number Three Type (on offer)
This Number Three type (Photos 14 & 15) is less common but has been around for a long time and in part borrows its sink attachment method from one of the popular garbage (food waste) disposer mounting systems.
Unfortunately this design, other than the stainless steel basket, is comprised from plated steel parts and of course is offered with die-cast tailpiece slip-nut, sure to corrode fairly quickly without the utmost care. Also unfortunate: if this type were to be offered in all stainless (including screws), it would be the simplest and best one for the new learner to install, requiring only a good quality pair of blunt nose pliers.*
In this Number Three type, the sides of the stainless steel basket have two or more protruding lugs. Think of them as little lumps. Once the basket is set in the sink hole, a circular, u-shaped ring, inverted, is slid up from underneath to the sink bottom. Usually residual plumber’s putty squished out from underneath the basket lip oozes out also under the sink hole. This is handy at sticking the u-ring in place long enough to align the lugs of the basket with the corresponding notches in the screw plate. Then, the plate is lifted and rotated above the lugs on the basket sides. Now it’s merely screwing the three mounting screws (alternately) in the plate until the whole apparatus is very snugly in place.
*If a manufacturer were to offer this Number Three type of BS, with a quality, cast brass basket (extra deep), with two, lug height positions, in conjunction with an ALL stainless screw plate; and, using SS Allen screws (studs) shipped with a quality fabric reinforced neoprene sealing washer, plumbers (of a quality trade) would so quickly adopt this fool-proof design that their product would corner that high-end market within a decade, or less.
Which One Where
‘Tis time to talk radiuses. As the author briefly noted upstream, enameled cast iron sinks (and composite ones also) will have a radius around the drain hole. Depending upon manufacturer, it is possible to find this radius carried to a slightly projecting ring on the bottom, underside of the bowl. The thicker this dimension is (from finish, flat surface around the hole at the inside bottom of the bowl) to the underside of the sinks raised (ring), the greater the length the threaded exterior of the first mentioned
Number One type (Photo 16) basket must be.
We need sufficient protruding threads to host the two flat gaskets (one rubber, one fiber), Photo 1, and the large threaded ring nut. As a rule of thumb, the less expensive the basket strainer, the shorter this dimension is. It is quite common to find yourself with a BS that is too “short” to install in usually higher quality, enameled cast iron sinks, like Kohler’s line. The author used to ask Ragnar at The Sink Factory (http://sinkfactory.com/) to hunt me down a quality, longer one whenever I ran into this predicament. However, for the vast majority of cases, my favorites, McGuire and Kohler, had me covered.
(SS) Stainless Steel Sinks
Stainless steel sinks pose a bit of a challenge to install Number One type BS’s, for two reasons. The first is because there is no radius on a SS sink drain hole. What you find here is a slightly tapered flat, running around the hole in the sink bottom. This flat tends to be wider than the lip on the basket and when the Number One type’s threaded ring-nut is threaded all the way up, the BS still has a tendency to creep because it is not being held in place by the shape of the drain hole. This is not to say that you cannot/should not attempt to install a Number One type in a stainless steel sink. The author installed quality (solid brass) BS’s in a café’s NSF sinks back in the 1980’s and they’re still on the job.*
Besides the SS sink holes flatness, we see that when the BS ring-nut is threaded all the way up, that if it were a perfect world, due the sinks thin thickness, we would surely appreciate a few more threads. Also, when the installer ‘goes’ for that final snug, the rubber sealing washer tends to squish out of place and you’ve failed. Is it your fault? Yes and no. It’s not the same case for a many year vet and a newbie. But there is a way which almost guarantees success.
* To achieve such decades longevity of leak free service demands fabric reinforced neoprene sealing washer, good quality fiber friction washer, solid brass ring-mounting nut and conscientious workmanship, mentioned below.
It’s the Threads
In an upstream In The Pipe, titled Brass Is Best, the author brought up the tag: Old World Quality. That applies to the situation you maybe find yourself in presently. Many years back that flat rubber sealing washer that is (now) too soft for the duty required of it, used to be made with layers of cloth (threads) reinforcement (or backing) which retarded creep wonderfully; and, you could ‘go’ that extra, success attaining ‘bite’ without squishing out the washer. Today we find that extent (fabric reinforcement) of ‘thoughtfulness’ and thoroughness of manufacturer as rare as living dinosaurs. The fabric layered, neoprene, gasket material is alive and well, on the web. A cardboard pattern and a sharp X-ACTO will solve your dilemma, if you can find a supplier offering the material in a ‘small enough’ purchase amount to merit the effort.
(Thickness of the gasket material is also of concern. On SS sinks, with Number One type baskets, it is best to have a ¼-inch thick fabric reinforced gasket. (Merely stacking two, thinner, un-reinforced gaskets most often spells failure.)
Benefit of the Number Two type Basket/Nesting Bowl BS
Because Number Two type BS’s secure themselves to the sink with MUCH less rotational force than Number One types, the flat, un-reinforced rubber sealing gasket has less tendency to creep (squish out) to failure.
(On Number One types, that cardboard or POLY flat washer installed over the rubber one is very important. The theory behind this cardboard/POLY washer is that it lets the large ring-nut slide (relieves friction) and keeps the compression force more of straight-up instead of twisting (rotation) which creates squishing out. If you leave it off or don’t have one, you’re dead-in-the-water. Thus it has always fallen under the description: friction washer. If yours is fiber/paper and in poor condition, you can purchase a new one or make one from a ½-gallon poly milk container.)
With Number Two types (Photo 4) this fiber/friction gasket/washer can be left off and sometimes it is not even shipped with the BS because the cheaper, un-reinforced rubber gasket usually suffices (until you move, if you’re lucky), when carefully centered and sufficiently, but not over torqued.
Is it the Virgo in me that causes an itch when I see, on a lip of an expensive, Number One type’s finish, a name or logo set at anywhere but 12 o‘clock? Or, sans logo, looking down onto the cross in the bottom of the basket, and not finding it almost perfectly vertical/horizontal?
Two Final Thoughts
If you have an aversion (due to allergy or psychosis) about reaching down to the strainer knob to drain a full sink bowl (especially a deep one) you might look at a pop-up drain. (Via internet or restaurant supply.) A restaurant/commercial version (Photo 17) has a lever or a knob which activates a linked internal stopper for dry hands operation. Of course these actuators will be located under the sink. Versions designed for residential use (Photo 18) use a cable, or lift-rod (Photo 19) actuated by a pull/lift knob mounted on top of the sink. But hey! you might find them worth the extra cost (purchase and installation) to spare you from your willies.
Well, one last note. That is: what medium to use under the BS’s lip. Pete the Plumber has always advocated good quality, new, plumber’s putty. (See Installing And Repairing Plumbing Fixtures.) My Good Buddy plumber friend Larry (https://www.larryweingarten.com/) swears by Silicone Sealant. Whichever method you use, if your work is conscientious and methodical you will probably be successful. Try to make it a pleasant chore. Tell yourself that the longer no one gives a thought to the performance and longevity of this basket strainer (actually this applies to all of your work) the better plumber you were/are. This pleasure is rarely achieved with less than top quality components.
Until Next Time,
Photos made possible by Bayley Lumber: bayleylumber.com/
The author takes more than a little pleasure in this post, announcing to the reader that scientists can now generate electricity from human sewage and grey water (without additional input of energy) at the same time treating it. It has been known for a little over one-hundred years that they could do this with the earth’s soil. Now, therefore, designers and planners of future municipal sewage treatment infrastructure envision their designs as power plants in an addition to being sanitation facilities.
Downstream PtP made reference to an additional process necessary to accomplish this feat with human sewage that was not necessary with just earth’s soil. This extra step is explained in a (mentioned) YouTube video (last paragraph, Page 2), titled and dated, which those readers who want the fullest explanation of this ‘miracle’ are urged to take the time to view.
As the author admits, his ‘mentions’ in past writings concerning future human waste treatments are now perhaps sorely burdening your ‘ears’? My apologies. I’m a plumber and some plumbers worry about such stuff, maybe second only to world health officials.
The planet, now though, has a laboratory to demonstrate a potential ‘lifestyle stoppage’. We may soon see a dense, utility-supplied, major-world metropolis struggle with horrendous public health and infrastructure/lifestyle decline due to insufficient flow of fresh water supply. That does not imply not having enough fresh water to drink, but rather insufficient supply to flush toilets, fill tubs, take showers, clean clothes, and more. (Whoa, what fun life will be then.) “Water is perhaps the most natural vital resource on the planet. It is necessary for human survival and a critical input to our food, manufacturing, and energy systems. It also sustains the ecosystems and climates upon which both our built and natural world rely.” (Cora Kammeyer, Pacific Institute Insights, October 19, 2017: “The World’s Water Challenges (2017)” Note For Thought: Our present sewage/wastewater infrastructure is based upon a past, ample precipitation status quo. That’s changing!
A second admission (confession): as a plumber, whatever transpires is of keen interest (macabre?) to yours truly, and to Dr. Waterheater). However, the author is not mortally/morally defeated by the human nature of humans. Me think’s there’s a glimmer of hope. And that is what this post wants to bring to your attention, in case you were not aware, or conversely, you were a ‘bit anxious: it all has to do with ‘bugs’ (micro) in human waste, and automatic washing machines. (It’s a Whirlpool World.)
The Status Quo
A municipal wastewater/sewage treatment plant uses LOTS of water (and energy), not only to carry what’s arriving 24/7, but to treat it while it’s going through all the settling, straining, aerating and other functions that make the end product eventually “safe” (but not potable) reclaimed water. (This treated water is now the source of fierce competition among cities and counties for ‘further’ treatment which does make it into potable water, in some cases purer than what many communities have for original supply. This present infrastructure requires generous precipitation. Will it continue? It’s very dubious.
There’s also an energy consumption price to pay for this standard of living. According to Kevin Westerling, Editor of Water Online, and Professor of Environmental Engineering at Penn State U: …this service costs most communities “approximately one-third” of their energy bill. And there are those researchers who see future wastewater/sewage treatment infrastructure as power plants. Now, what I next want to recount to you gets really interesting, both chemically and philosophically.
Badlands to Bangor…and Bombs Away
As a child (among four other siblings), in the mid- ‘forties, ours was a family that took pride in its summer car camping vacations, both in the number of states visited, and their respective number of State and National parks enjoyed. (The author recalls that in those days it was also custom to purchase (or get them for free) window decals in the various States and Parks you visited and, plaster them on all the cars windows but the windshield, until your vehicle resembled a traveling Tiffany lamp.) Window decals were The Captain’s (Dad’s) campaign ribbons. This mode of transportation/camping brought its adherents into close contact with nature in all her glory and diversity, including many detours and most of her “bugs”.
In the ‘literature’ we read that the average adult American hosts about 5 lbs. of “bugs” (bacteria) needed for good health.
Now, it’s not without a morsel of regret that I remember how many hundreds of aerosol bombs, of then highly deadly pesticide, my dad, singular handed, applied to the planet in preparation to setting-up camp (and nightly re-applications just before sliding into our sleeping bags). (And pulling the top over our heads when we heard/smelled that assault on ‘the bugs’.) But as society has learned in recent generations, not all bugs are bad, and many do great service to mankind. However, we are now most fortunately (in one area at least), entering a brand new relationship with ‘the bugs’. The facilitator of this revolutionary paradigm is the MFC. No, that’s not the stuff you termites make into cabinets and tops, but rather Microbial Fuel Cells.
It so happens that good ole Mother’s skin (soil, in most places), coupled with the harnessing (think: Christopher Columbus) of the bacteria therein has proven to be ample supply for this magical MFC reaction. The idea surfaced in 1911 as noted in (Water Online, Feb. 12, 2018). We’ll touch upon the mechanics a bit downstream. But, what I can’t wait to tell (to possibly many of you) whom haven’t lately learnt, that, for the first time in human history, mankind is poised to GENERATE ELECTRICITY, directly from our POOP! By coaxing ‘the bugs’ into a mutual annihilation mode, this miracle can be made a 24/7 event; but, only in conjunction with: 1. (one) additional process.
A third admission/confession (volunteered without duress) is: in previous writings, Pete the Plumber admittedly played a lot of hooky from Dr. Louderback’s chemistry classes, and explaining this ‘one extra process’ is best left to someone else: Professor Bruce Logan. Dr. Logan, also of Penn State, has produced a YouTube video titled: ‘Bruce Logan/Microbial Fuel Technologies’, August 20, 2017. (What an amazing amalgam of intellect and personality! PtP wishes he had enough money to just pay him for private conversation.) If you want to know ‘The Straight Poop’ on this topic, watch this video by clicking the following link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M1ElYtTAq9A. A search on YouTube for Bruce Logan/Penn State will reveal this among other of his videos.
Now, yours truly foresees a societal ‘left turn’ as drastic as solar energy and heating is having (and has had) on the planet when the MFC revolution comes to fruition. Every month there is more news about advances this MFC process is undergoing. Research at Kaunas University of Technology, Lithuania, just recently shed-light on a method producing a 20 percent efficiency gain. And, the author believes not unlike installing solar on your house and getting hot water and Watts, the richer world will, in the near future, see washing machine sized ‘processors’ (think outside appliances, like heat-pumps, residential HFC (Hydrogen Fuel Cell vaults), water softeners, and soon, at each? dwelling, the MFC ‘vault’.
In San Diego, California, on March 28, 2012, at the 243rd National Meeting & Exposition of the American Chemical Society, scientists described an innovative device the size of a home washing machine that converts the bacteria in municipal sewage to electricity “…and cleans up the sewage at the same time.”
This ‘Miracle Maytag’ that the (future?) living unit’s human, liquid, and solid waste enters, produces electrical energy, and results in an end-product (a small amount of garden-friendly by-product), which itself will have commercial applications (urban high rise farms?). We are poised to witness a worldwide mega-achievement: generating electricity from our poop without using heat energy, letting ‘the bugs’ do it for us. And, sunlight is not required! How cool is that?
This really neat feat is only in its infancy though, requiring a lot more bucks of investment, but it could prevail just as the Green Revolution arrived in the nick of time. The first objective is to get sewage/wastewater treatment plants to generate enough electricity to power their own requirements. Even when that is accomplished, considering the flow needed for today’s plants to operate, drought can and looks to be considering “pulling the plug”. The $ 64,000.00 Question: Can/will cities be able to effectively and safely process their human waste at individual living units rather than trying to maintain a municipal pond system. Only time will tell. However, global application of this ‘miracle’ would definitely demonstrate a pinnacle awareness achievement of, and conservation of, our most precious resource (fresh water).
Yet, probably only plumbers and Public Health Staff will be fixating on the problem as long as droughts are not too many, too soon. One philosophical viewpoint: the dense, big cities which need this new technology the most can probably generate the financial means to make the transition when existentially challenged. We/us “hay seeds” (Hay Fork, CA) will be watching (nervously), from a safe distance, learning and waiting (and glad we haven’t caved-in Gramp’s old outhouse).
Next To Final Comment
MFC as stated above stands for: microbial fuel cell. Another way of saying it is: biological fuel cell. And, it is an electrochemical process that creates electricity using microbes and bacteria in a way much like Mother does. The first published report that bacteria can do this, with soil, surfaced nearly a hundred years ago. (Search: cellular respiration.) It was discovered that microbes interacting with bacteria produce an electrical current. (Dr. Logan in his videos demonstrates this very elegantly.) In addition, new hi-tech materials, which are themselves in constant evolution, and which are part of the process, are accomplishing big strides in the efficiency factor. This old antique PtP will not see the day but If you keep your ear to the ground you’ll discover a lot of new, exciting advancements ‘coming down the pipe’. (Hopefully enough to allay some of your human near trait: anxiousness.)
Second and Last Bet?
Pray for GEPC. (Generous Eternal Precipitation Cycles); invest in perfume companies; and, have a personalized bucket for each member of the family.
Until Our Paths Cross Again,
Upstream the author mentioned a possible future post on pipe joint compounds. Well, that’s what’s on the menu this time around. Again, if you are a plumber, you can skip this one too. Now, you might ask what’s so important about gobbing on pipe dope? Well, there’s more to this subject than meets the eye.
Even with the aid of PTFE ribbon tape, plumbers working with threaded systems still depend upon paste consistency compounds, for specific applications. On the shelves of suppliers you will see numerous brands trying to get your attention. Which one should you choose? Well, where do you intend to use it? On what type of piping? Will just one product cover all of your needs? These very questions will help you make the best choice. In this plumber’s experience not one single compound will cover all your needs. I will tell you what I’ve discovered over the years.
Not all compounds (all brands are blends, the sum of ingredients) are sanctioned for both metallic and plastic piping. As the author mentioned in his upstream blog, The Teflon Story, you have to be careful which compounds you apply to threaded ABS adapters (DWV systems) and involving faucets, around certain exotic content counter tops. So first, look ON THE CAN (photo 1) for any sanctioned uses and warnings. If you are working with ABS do your homework and make sure you see that specification spelled out. Ditto for PVC, although PVC is compatible with many more blends than ABS is. Some manufactured counter materials can be stained by some joint compounds (and certain brands of plumber’s putty) so it pays to work conscientiously and no drips.
For threaded steel fittings, both water and fuel gas lines, you have almost carte blanche. But regardless of which threaded material you wish to administer the compound, there is more than the compatibility issue, which I’ll get to next.
Tension, compression, and clean and dry threads are what allow quality PTFE ribbon tape to stay in place on male threads (as described in the Teflon Story). This clean and dry aspect remains the case also for compounds, with some additional twists, they being: consistency of the paste and how well it adheres to and transfers from the application brush to threads. This ease of loading the brush and the ease of transferring the compound to threads, especially female ones, are what makes plumbers brand loyal. Oily threads, both M/FM, inhibit you efforts to apply the paste and some brands just have a very unhelpful consistency and viscosity when it comes to loading the brush. For the brands that are difficult to load with a straight brush, you’ll find a ‘bent’ or angled brush makes a pesky chore almost a passable one. Conversely, compounds that have a “runny” consistency are easier to get out of the can but can be messier to use. (The author would rather tack towards runny than too stiff.)
The smaller the molecules of the medium you’re sending down the pipe, the easier/better they are to escape. Air under pressure is more difficult to contain than water under pressure.
Ready? Set! ……….
Some compounds have a set time and can be between 4 to 48 hrs where the viscosity changes from an easier to apply peanut butter consistency to that of fully cured rubber cement. This set time will vary depending upon ambient temperature and chemical content. The brand and viscosity/consistency that the author has used successfully for decades on threaded steel and brass (for both water and gas), under-sink threaded tubular brass waste slip nuts, and threaded female copper adapters (also for water) is the yellow Rectorseal No. 5. PHOTO 2.
This No.5 has a somewhat “nose tingling” aroma when you are working with it in a confined space such as under sink cabinets, but it loads and applies wonderfully. It has a slow set time.. When used on gas lines, the longer you can wait towards the listed cure time before air-testing, the better your chances of no leaks. When yours truly installed a new garbage disposer with a customer requested tubular bass continuous waste system (versus ABS or PVC), employing brass slip nuts, he needed to get the tools back on the truck and be down the road to the next job. Yet, I have had very good results (very few leaks) because I put PTFE ribbon tape on the male threads and No.5 in the slip nut female threads. Where No.5 is like a heavy syrup, other compounds, some of PTFE, are like cake frosting. And PTFE’s often do not have set times. I’ve found a couple of PTFE’s that were difficult to load and apply, and required some custom modifications to a standard acid brush to make use of. However there are situations where one type is better than another, and yet not just one blend solves your need every time. Presently my favored PTFE is Rectorseal’s T + 2. PHOTO 3
The ‘dope’ PtP was introduced to in the late 1950’s, and it’s still manufactured, is/was called (Key Brand’s) Key-Tite. PHOTO 4. (Key Brand is now owned by Cameron Co.) It’s in a white can with an old fashioned key on the label. Key-Tite is spelled in red letters and there are vertical green stripes on the can.
It’s also a green compound and nice smelling. Wonderful loading and application quality. Good stuff for water and fuel gas, but I can no longer find it in my locales. You might check the plumbing supply stores in your area. One of the best things about this one though is you never have to stir it even after long, long times in the can. Thus we can say no set time for this choice. (And, it will never dry out in the can between uses.). The product is an ‘Accessory’ for their WKM Valve line. If you are interested here’s a phone number 1+281-582-9500.
Got the Blues?
The author (while he’s thinking of it) would like to give you another tip. There’s one pipe joint compound (PHOTO 5) BLOCK ™ that over the years I became very appreciative of, even if it had only one, major place of application. That was W & O’s, bathtub waste and overflows. When you install a tub waste to a tub, and there is no ‘after finish’ access to the waste and overflow and p-trap, you in essence have ‘sealed your Knight up in the wall’. On traditional cast brass wastes, when the first generation rubber slip-nut washers, rubber tub-shoe-to-strainer gasket and rubber tub to overflow gasket, dry up and give-out (by shrinking and drying out) replacing them can be a real tussle. When ABS and PVC cemented W & O’s first came along I thought the rubber slip-nut problem was solved. But these plastic versions had/have other problems all their own. (Given the choice, I’d pic the brass.) The author eventually discovered a product, mentioned above, that was a smart choice even with the longer lasting beveled nylon washers. When installing virgin parts which are clean and dry, this product (PHOTO) seals the space between nut/washer/tube and Tee, develops a rubber-like final cure and resists failure from repeated heating and expansion and contraction. After full assembly it was applied (externally) to thin gaps between components and left to cure. In my book “Installing And Repairing Plumbing Fixtures”, the companion to “The PEX Expanded Plumbing A House”, you will see the tub waste and overflow parts involved, illustrated and photographed.
This ‘dope’ BLOCK is blue in color. It is manufactured by Hercules’s Company. In this plumber’s opinion there are a number of aromas associated with sanitary plumbing and plumbing chemicals that one could say was bordering on offensive. But I cannot say that about the nostalgic aroma of BLOCK. Its smell reminds me of new toys when I was a young boy, manufactured right after WW2. They were rubber. (The pleasure of entering the neighborhood 5 & Dime/toy shop, then, is much alike now walking into a fine-cigar store’s inner sanctum, even though I no longer use tobacco).
When having to tell my repair customer that I needed to cut holes in walls (‘inside, outside, and up-side down’) to get at the problem, it was never told without a very sincere, prominent “wish it didn’t have to be this way.” The chore of saying that was almost as unpalatable as the making of the holes. As a last gasp the author has reached through the smallest of possible openings, some existing and some PtP-ized to reach a waste and overflow, and/or p-trap, and attempt to rectify a leak.
Block, being of rubber, among a few other minor ingredients, has a consistency like real heavy pancake batter. It has a long set time, very dependent upon ambient temperatures, and yours truly only worked with it when set times could be fully met. (And, I gave up trying to use it without disposable gloves.) The author has cured some slip-nut leaks without disassembly, when the tub in question could be quarantined from water, for a long enough rest. On bone dry (sometimes with the aid of hand held electric heat guns) W&O connections, with repetitive exterior applications of BLOCK at slip-nut and gasket locations, I have postponed (sometimes for decades) needed fixture replacement due to gravity drainage leaks.
As mentioned above the weak links of W&O’s are still the rubber parts. (Shoe and Overflow), and in days gone by, the rubber slip-nut washers. Because of the rigidity of iron tubs, it was common (as mentioned upstream) to get 30 years of service from rubber in tub W&O’s. With today’s plastic tub/shower combo, even with cemented plastic wastes or nylon washers on the brass wastes, because of flexing of the ‘plastic’ fixture due to body weight, that’ no longer the case. And, is a good reason when employing “plastic” fixtures to consider the slower but surer assembly procedure using BLOCK.
Today, I don’t think you will find any new W & O’s boxed with rubber slip nut washers. The beveled nylon version slip nut washer is ubiquitous. But in some rare instances, you may find yourself working on an “oldie”. It was/is common to find properly maintained tubs to have rubber slip-nut washer wastes, twenty to thirty-some years on the job, two weeks prior to your leak call.
Brass Or Plastic
It’s really a pleasure to install a quality brass W & O, like a pop-up Kohler. Hefting and assembling the clean, shiny brass components somehow feels “superior” to cutting 1½-in. plastic pipe nipples and gluing on a tee and shoe. But what remains a bonus for the plastic option is the joining method: chemical welds. As long as the assembly is not abused (1/4-in. ‘drain snakes’)) and remains snuggly in place, the glued joints at some point become the strongest point. Trip levers/knobs and toe-taps tend to die first.
When installing a brass waste (preferably) to a new iron tub, on its side, on a carpet scrap, the author, leaves off the PTFE ribbon on the tee’s male slip-nut threads and applies a generous application of BLOCK to both the brass slip-nut cavities and the male threads of the tee and on and around the top of the in place nylon (or rubber) slip-nut washer. Then, just ‘snuggly’ tightening the slip nuts, the compound is forced around the beveled washer and ‘surrounded’ so to speak. Have ample rags handy to wipe up/off the excess BLOCK that squirms out around the tubing, and to clean the stuff of the jaws of your pliers. Next, on a following day, (I’ve explained to the homeowner the benefit of my madness), I apply another brush width, at the joint, around the overflow tubing where it passes through the slip nut on the tee and the tube of the shoe where it passes into the slip nut on the tee. Done. Now it’s a croissant and espresso break!
Just as it’s more difficult to do a ‘proper’ job of cementing larger diameter ABS and PVC pipe and fittings with the small brush in a four to six ounce can of cement, applying compound to larger diameter male and female threads with the small brush-in-cap is also at times irritating. The author recommends that if you only want to purchase one sized can, which will ‘go the furthest’ for meeting your need, I suggest a half-pint or larger. The brush is usually the same size of that of the quart can of compound. If ‘you’z in-the-biz’ the brush in ½-pint will work well with M/FM threads up to 2 & 1/2-in.
In the future I expect to see new compounds join the market and if they remain in the market for sufficient time to suggest there ‘might be something to it’, I’ll experiment with it first, before assigning it major applications. In the interim, those time tested brands mentioned in this article will see you through your present jobs requirements.
After discussing the horrific fresh water problem facing Cape Town, last post, it got me thinking about countries that already have a history of water scarcities, like Israel, Saudi Arabia, Australia and others. My, wasn’t it Israel that lead the world in developing DESAL? I believe so. Not having remembered any blaring warnings in the major media with any serious health concerns about the industry (other than gripes about cost), I more or less had positive opinions for DESAL. With the ever-growing dilemma of water scarcity, could/would this then be a full solution, for any country, that invested in it as heavily as Israel has? Would this more or less guaranty success?
Over time I had read of Israel’s DESAL success and her successes in the consulting area for this technology. With the technical challenges now mostly all worked out, what about: DESAL for any demand that has all its political/ecological/engineering marbles in a row? Could/will that be their salvation?
Yours truly had not given this topic all that much thought until this late Cape Town emergency. Then, I remembered there was one such plant, newly completed in Monterey County, CA, (which the author visits several times a year) and has proven to be a very contentious endeavor, on myriad fronts. Is this what typically transpires with any community/government/private project with these price tags and technical complexities? That question was enough to challenge inertia, and after some full evenings of reading-up on the subject, my usual Pollyanna state of mind flip-flopped. Actually, somber mental currents that I am susceptible to when dwelling upon the danger and downside to nuclear power, I now also find surrounding me on this topic.
However, that new assessment represents the opposite to the author’s “can’t-wait-to-get-to-work” enthusiasm I held for DESAL as a young assistant to a ‘mad scientist’ who fervently experimented with different processes. When I say “mad” scientist, I mean it. My benefactor physicist was one of former President Ronald Regan’s ‘brains’ working on REAL Star Wars stuff, like ‘plasma space cannons’ and ‘electric’ deep-space rocket motors. (Herr Doktor eventually blew-up his lab on Revell Campus at UCSD.) (Young Pete the Plumber was playing hooky that day. Whew! ) Is it possible ole Doc re-discovered Cavorite?
A mention by Professor Yona Amitai, a Public health expert, speaking at a Bar Ilan University conference is quoted :
“…..initial results of Israeli studies point to an elevated mortality risk for myocardial infarction in areas where there is wide use of desalinated water.”
Now, that alone is something to mull over when considering the proliferation of DESAL. But unfortunately there are more, balloon-popping reasons why DESAL (as presently applied) cannot serve as a viable (politically/ecologically) model for solving future water needs on a larger scale, without major adaptions. (It is tremendously energy consuming; it produces and releases an environment threatening brine with twice the salt content of normal ocean water plus chemicals used in the process are also accompanying this discharge; enough aquaculture is killed in the process that it negatively affects commercial fisheries.) Another big health question is the Boron that exists in sea water, but not in fresh water, and which is left in the desalinated supply, a dangerous situation? There’s a lot to still learn.
Because the author has not owned a TV in almost 40 years, he’s enjoyed/enjoys a surfeit of time to indulge his eclectic reading ‘wants’. Because PtP happens to be a merman at heart, and once wondered if he could live more than a long walk (but preferably adjacent to) an ocean beach, and is at home in and on the water as ashore, most things water usually will grab my attention. Two of my major sources, a “regulars”, are the site for The Pacific Institute (headquartered in Oakland, California) and another: CEO Water Mandate. When the snowflakes are a cartwheeling or it’s wind and rain, the author especially thinks it’s time for the recliner and another log on the fire, and to pull the lap robe and spend the hours calmly discovering.
S. F. Chronicle
“…….fifty-four percent of California is abnormally dry at present.”
“…....seasonal Sierra snow melt accounts for about one-third of California’s water supply.”
“………present snow pack is close the all- time record low for this time of year.”
Are we so smug that we, of the U.S. completely disavow any possibility of Mother Nature choosing to “school us” like she’s now doing for Cape Town? Interesting times.
The city of Cape Town, South Africa, is about to be the first major city in the world to run out of water. The author read in a BBC article by Gabriella Mulligan that there have been attempts to conserve and the populace has gone through major cut-backs, but it was just recently informed that water service may soon be shut off to everyone but ‘absolutely’ necessary services, like hospitals and security services, etc. According to that source Cape Town (and surrounding environs) have been experiencing a very fierce drought for three years and counting. Officials there are now considering an even more draconian ration of 6.6 gallons per day per person as the reservoirs race to the mandatory cut off point of 13% capacity. At this point the rations could go even to single liters-per-person, per day, if the drought continues. According to a French media: City Taps report, in the African city of Niger, smart water meters are being installed that shut the water off if your cell-enabled account goes ‘negative’. (Pete the Plumber will wager those ‘smart’ water-meters will proliferate worldwide.)
Of course those enclaves’s ‘well-to-do’ will have privately contracted water delivery services. (Speak’n of that, the author many years ago worked on a ‘desert mansion’ being built by a very wealthy, ‘water-minded’ gentleman who wanted some level of insurance to disruption of utility service. Nestled in a gap between huge boulders at the edge of the property, curbside, stood a beefy, gravity-operated stanchion (both fill and vent) for a buried, stainless steel 6-in. pipe. This pipe ran 100-plus ft. to a 6000 gallon, stainless steel storage tank, in the ground, beneath the structure. (This extravagant but elegant feature comprised an emergency, separate water system from the utility supplied Main Building Supply system.) Tank-serving pumps, on a separate electrical system and through a separate water distribution system, also served each fixture. Wanna guess this owner’s choice for water delivery service? None other than Sparklett’s Co.)
Back In The Real World
Many other nations could see Cape Town’s predicament (sooner than expected) with the evermore accelerating climate change events we are experiencing. The BBC’s science editor, Paul Rincon writes that by 2025 UN experts expect 14% of the world to “encounter water scarcity.” This plumber has known from Day One which aspect of modern plumbing is the most integral to our present standard. He thinks that if/when that dire, “in liters” rationing becomes reality, those of us still present will find that dealing with human waste will be modern society’s biggest challenge, ahead of finding sufficient fresh water at ‘survival’ levels.
Sewage treatment plants require a lot of water and real progress has been achieved with waste water re-use. But if/when there’s no water to serve toilets, how will we handle this problem? (Photo #1)
Of course the probable very first step will be ‘porta-potty’ rentals. (Will that be a business to be in?) But for the vast majority it will not suffice. When you have huge metropolitan areas without sufficient water to provide ‘solid waste’ sanitary conditions, what pressures will come to bear on the populace. Everyone needs to poop. Backyard out-houses will only get one “so far” until cholera and other old nemeses are again a fact of life. Rarely does one think about one’s ‘privilege’ of having a private, utility-supplied sanitary system. (Except, the Homeless are a growing human sector faced with this reality.)
According to the World Health Organization, at the last count, 27% of the world’s population (1.9 billion) used private facilities connected to sewers. The WHO: Some 2.3 billion souls still do not have toilets. The BBC: 850 million people lack access to safe drinking water. According to the BBC’s Mulligan, in The ‘Developing’ world, 80% of fresh water supplies impounded, are lost to leakage. For the U.S. this estimate is up to 50%. (And I read in an AWWA (American Water Works Association) bulletin, that American water utilities suffered 6.1 million LSL’s (Leaking Service Lines) in 2017.
Folks (in general) still get their ‘shorts-in-a-knot’ enough, over the rare power outage. Wait until every person in-the-joint has to deal with disposing of their own human waste, daily, or even oftener. That will be the day the “””” hits the fan. The author has lived off-grid ‘without facilities’ for extended periods. But we all can’t have my beloved, fancy, composting out-houses because first there would simply not be enough room for them, irrespective of health issues due to crowding. The scary part comes when there’ll be no water to even pour down toilets to make them function. Cape Town officials tell its inhabitants that they think they will have enough to ‘stay alive’. But what kind of “staying alive” would that feel (and smell) like?
The author has some experience with composting toilets. The most efficient, power required versions are too bulky to install in built space. Their framing and use requirements need to be considered in the framing stage of the structure.
Other composting designs both power-assisted and purely anaerobic, which fit where existing fixtures are set, can be finicky in their performance. Such basic issues as ambient temperatures and drafts pose obstacles to efficiency. And save some exotic, water supplied/pump ejected, ‘up’-flushing bowls, every other toilet installed, despite the type, requires a vent. And, the venting demands for most un-planned for, composting, non-powered models would preclude them from application because of unsuitability, based upon the existing framing in each and every structure. Providing for this vent, then, can be a nightmare. A “Game Stopper.”
O. K. What would/could happen?
Throughout the histories of the city, there have been “water bearers”, (Photo #2) who, with the use of a pole for shoulder and containers, brought water (and many other necessities) to your door, for a price. And there were also those* who made a living hauling away the nightly spoils of ‘chamber-pots.’ (Photo #3) (*Gongfermours or Gong farmers). Does history repeat itself? What are our odds? Well, no worries for this antique, but like the old song: “……Que Sera, Sera……”(whatever will be, will be). Will the mobile sewage disposal business be a good investment in the future?
The author lived and worked for over 30 years (20 yrs. raising a family), right on or very near a major earthquake fault. (Once, two of his young, middle-school aged children, swimming at the community’s plus-Olympic sized pool, had some real excitement. A 6+ quake sent one of them from the second of four lanes onto the deck and the other found herself moved over four lanes, in the time of taking a breath.)
The Author’s Pet Nightmare
A majority amount of the water requirements for the 7 million inhabitants of the greater Bay Area metropolitan area depend upon two, large, old, high-maintenance tunnels crossing a major, active, earthquake fault in distant mountains. If these conduits suffered a rupture and failed, the problems of dealing with human waste would be almost as dire as fresh water for drinking. Forget bathing. Perfume sellers would have to go back centuries to find their trade in such a bull market. In the not so far off future maybe a smart billionaire or two will see ‘possibilities’ for fresh water super tankers. And, municipal “Sanitary Car Lines” might flourish, and have their own schedules just like buses. (Bathroom ‘trains’). In this old plumber’s opinion, it doesn’t appear too likely that the humans presently alive would/will be able to accomplish what’s required to eventually “turn this ship around” and avoid the wreck of wrecks: back to the Bronze Age infrastructure of human hygiene.
The author fondly recalls another red flag, one of his early boyhood. On family camping trips his father would hang a red flag in camp to which one carried to and placed on the path at the improvised ‘comfort station’ to announce occupancy. Could my old camping memories or Medieval reality ever become a future city dwellers new paradigm? Que Sera, Sera….
There’s more than one instance in the PEX portion of the revised and expanded Plumbing A House, where the author makes known (to put it lightly) his concerns with the water rights situation in California, the most populous State in our Union. (Water rights vary by State and California is by no means facing a daunting water future, alone.) In this blog post I would like to take this opportunity to tell you about a new book that regardless of where you live, you might want to read if you have any interest in water issues, at all. Personally speaking, the author believes that all residents of the Seven Western States in the Colorado River Compact should know what’s contained in this book.
On my suggested reading list in Plumbing A House, Cadillac Desert was at the top. This new read: Tim Stroshane’s Drought, Water Law and the Origins of California’s Central Valley Project is an excellent follow-up, illuminating many (formerly unmentioned) events that were precursors to the creation of the State Water Project, and which (now) raises awareness about the intractable problems still facing California’s water future. (One of the very succinct bits of information is Stroshane’s quote of Abraham Lincoln: “As a result of the war, corporations have been enthroned and an era of corruption in high places will follow, and the money power of the country will endeavor to prolong its reign by working upon the prejudices of the people until all wealth is aggregated in a few hands and the Republic is destroyed.”
The issues raised in Stroshane’s book (in this author’s opinion) also directly affect the not so far off future of the plumbing industry and the continued role of the plumber in our society. Humankind requires clean water to stay alive and our current methods of sanitary plumbing are built upon unconstrained supplies. Great progress is being made by large population centers on water re-use, but the question remains whether nature will continue to serve up dependable precipitation for these and current systems to continue.
If you were also to read “Clean And Decent” which is on the suggested reading list, you would see early examples of “dry” (‘earth’) toilets, which in some new form (composting?) could again (no matter how ‘unpalatable’) be in our future. Whether you fall into the riparian law camp or that of the appropriative law proponents (you might surprise yourself to discover which one you are.). Stroshane will help you understand California’s future water battles as they unfold.
Well, the author hopes that Part 1 (below) suffices, about the tape that isn’t, and now feels it’s time to recommend how to best apply the stuff.
As much a difference as sufficiently polishing (cleaning) copper components means for no-leak sweating success, the same goes for the cleanliness of threads, both male/female, regardless of diameter and regardless of material. So we’ll do this wrapping routine with this also in mind.
Let’s start this training exercise with a ½-in. or ¾-in. pipe nipple, 4-in. or longer. It could be a galvanized one, a brass one or a Schedule 80 PVC threaded nipple. Are you right or left handed? The author happens to be right handed. If you are LH, I hope you have become a sufficient RH/LH translator/transcriber by this stage of your adventure.
Let’s also pretend you are me, and we’re sitting on an up-turned 5 gal bucket in an unfinished bathroom or maybe we’re kneeling down on a mature tile floor removing the lavatories corroded ½-in. galvanized, hot supply nipple. (The hot ALWAYS goes first.) In both situations a new nipple needs to be inserted into empty female threads, in front of us. (I don’t know about you but my favorite knee pads are those made for carpet install pros. They’re thick, genuine leather with thick felt liners, with double leather straps and metal buckles. Very comfortable and no sweating.)
PtP carries around old toothbrushes and new, standard trade, hog-hair paste-flux-brushes for cleaning threaded female fittings. He also has pipe taps to quickly run in and out, which dislodges stubborn foreign matter and dresses imperfect threads. (See: The PEX Revised and Expanded Edition of Plumbing A House for some suggestions on the use of fittings for fuel gas systems.) Of course male threads are easier and quicker to clean in preparation for engaging pipe to fittings and vice versa. But equally important is always starting with clean female threads.
So, Here We Go!
For this tutorial I’ve chosen a new ½- or ¾-in. Schedule 80 std. right hand threaded PVC nipple. I’ve made this choice for the easy-on-the-eyes gray color, and if recently purchased from the supplier, the threads will be as clean as a whistle, and dry. We will work with a roll of quality ½-in. tape. The length of the tape on any spool will vary, by price. Hardware stores will tend to sell rolls with less on them for customers with only occasional needs but usually only serious hardware stores will carry 3.5 Mil, 99% pure tape, what we want for this exercise.
Also, many tradesmen opt for 620-in. rolls, as does yours truly. The 1,000 plus-inch rolls (like Blue Monster) which have become popular these days, might pose a bigger challenge for the new-learner unless they had large hands and long fingers. Pete the Plumber recommends the 620-inch rolls which he (with gorilla mitts) finds more comfortable to manipulate, and would think so especially for new learners.
O.K., Lay It On Me!
As hinted in the first paragraph, from here our second push might qualify for some readers as sickeningly elemental. That’s alright. The author was always ‘queasy’ for a day (or longer) after lifting the lids on Greasy Spoon Restaurants’ grease traps. I ‘m going to be very anal in this second push because I would be happy if this post could really put the ribbon seal topic to rest.
Fine. We’re comfortably either standing, sitting, or kneeling. In our left hand, palms down, fingers are wrapped around the nipple (of which about 1¼-in. pokes out past your thumb and forefinger, into space.) With the tape cover off find the end of the tape and pull out 2 inches. Place the spool on your right index finger. Have the tape hanging off the back side of the spool. This is very important because it affords you better control. Now, on the same hand, grip the bottom of the dangling tape between your thumb and middle finger.
Next, bring close up, the nipple in your left hand, towards you, from behind the tape, and approximate the bottoms of tape (in your fingers) and bottom of the nipple. Now on the spool hosting hand, separate middle finger and thumb, and let the tape hang free, so it hangs in front of the nipples threads. We’ve draped the dangled tape in front of and over to the edge of the threads. You want the outside edge of the tape to be right at the edge of the nipples first thread, that is, the one at the front edge of the nipple. And, we want the tape not to hang below the bottom of the nipple.
When you’ve got that, still holding the nipple firmly, lift your thumb on that left hand and move it over and press the center of the tape tightly, in place. Keep your thumb on it firmly; don’t let it slip.
Now, with the middle finger on the spool-hosting hand, pressing on the far, back side rims of the spool, and the thumb pressing the front (acting as a brake), pull the tape (away from you) out over the top of the nipple, letting out about 5½ inches of tape, and stop. Next, pull on the tape with some ‘good’ force. Don’t worry if you break it. We’ve gotta whole roll to play with. We’re using quality 3.5 Mil, 99 percent pure PFTE. (Those attempting this with the cheap stuff will have a much less satisfying experience.) Maintaining this pulling tension, in a circular path, slowly lower your spool hand down until you can plainly see the top threads of the nipple, in high relief, under the tape. Good. Then maintaining that pulling tension, bring the spool forward, towards you, (below the nipple), and begin to encircle the nipple in this clockwise direction slowly, maintaining tautness. When you are bringing the tape upwards and about to reach your thumb, lift the front edge of your thump so you can go under it and keep going until you go around once more, and are about to reach it again. At this point you should be able to remove your thumb as you climb up the threads, overlapping by one-half tape width as you climb to the top thread. Almost done. Once at the top thread we will keep winding, this time back down, lapping as you go, until you cover our very first wrap, where we started. Maintain the tension. FINALLY, put your left thumb back on the tape FIRMLY. (The higher the quality of tape the more of a chore this becomes.) Now, we want the shortest distance between spool edge and nipple. We will finally separate the tape. This is done by tightly gripping the spool with thumb and both fingers, and pulling the spool away from the held-in-place nipple with a jerking motion. If you pull slowly you will merely stretch the tape too far before breaking it. You can also employ a jolt of near-equal force in opposite directions if it’s easier for you. After the tape breaks, keep your left thumb firmly pressed on the tape and set the spool aside. Finally, (yeah, finally) using your right hand thumb and index finger, do a forceful twisting (only in the same clockwise direction) of the tape-end into the thread’s valleys. With good force the tape end will adhere. With the tape lying flat and no unraveling, it’s time to pat yourself on the back. CONGRATULATIONS!
Just In Case
Another way of parting the tape that works for me is to hold the nipple still, left thumb firmly on tape, and wind up the spool, tightly, until the rims of the spool contact the nipple, and then keep winching on the spool until the tape parts. When attempting either parting technique, with the cheap stuff, when it parts, there can be an ‘explosion’ of micro-fine, wispy, strands of PTFE floating in the air with some still attached to both pieces, stretching like boardwalk salt-water taffy as you try to break it/them. There are other unsatisfactory aspects to the cheap stuff. If the side of the spool does not have the Mil-Spec # or the A-A- sequence, it’s the imposter. This stuff is rarely wound onto the spool in level wraps and it often, what PtP calls ‘gutter-balls’, slides into the gap between tape edge and inside wall of the spool. Once it has done this, it is no longer in tape form. Several inches of tape have become string. You cannot get a ‘string’ end to adhere to the already wrapped threads. And, it makes for awkward moves to join fitting and pipe and vice/versa, without having the tape unravel during the engagement. Another futile effort, like trying to put toothpaste back into the tube: putting the roll cover back on the spool of the cheapest of the cheap is an open ended finger exercise. Forget it. It was a one-time joint. Without the spool cover a good portion of this roll will many times unwind between needs, and, be wasted. Finally but not a finally: the cheap stuff, when held up to view, looks the color of skim milk compared to the cream of quality.
What If I Wrap The Tape On Backwards?
If you do not follow the spiral direction of the threads (clockwise when staring down the barrel) upon engagement, in most cases, the ribbon tape is scraped up into a leading wave of white, a bow-wave, forming at the edge of the fitting, making for a dry and leak compromised joint. I don’t know anyone who hasn’t done this even long after they thought they “had it down.” You’ll be excused. It won’t affect your grade. It’s gonna happen. But NOW you know how to make it right.
What About Oily Threads?
O.K., the former exercise was performed on a clean, PVC threaded nipple. What about galvanized or black steel pipe? The answer lies in whether you are buying the pipe pre-threaded in lengths of one through ten feet, and using store-bought nipples, or are you making your own threads with your own threading equipment?
Store purchased sticks/sections and nipples are usually acceptably oil-free and other than inspecting the threads prior to engagement, the ribbon can usually be applied without a further cleaning of the male threads. When making your own lengths and nipples, however, usually there is enough residual oil in the threads that it is a good idea to wipe the excess off before applying the tape.
How Many Makes For A Bum Wrap?
You will see in ‘the literature’ recommendations that 3 wraps of tape is recommended. The author finds his described process is foolproof because he also applies a thin application of paste joint compound to the threads of female fittings. When working with DWV female ABS plastic threads (FIP adapters) and ABS p-trap union threads, the pipe joint compound has to also be PTFE. (See below.)
For most applications, sans the paste, I am in agreement with the 3 wrap stipulation if you do not want to employ my above method. However, when you encounter broken and/or ‘slightly’ damaged threads, metal or plastic, it’s O.K. to apply more wraps. Again, as I mentioned upstream, one of the few times/places that I sometimes forgo the use of tape is on the fine threads of 1¼- and 1½-in. threaded brass tail pieces under sinks and tub waste & over-flows, if I have any difficulty engaging these threads. They are so fine and shallow that it is possible, too easily, to cross-thread the parts. Here, on metal parts, without the use of tape, I use either Hercules® Brush-On BLOCK™ paste thread sealant or Rectorseal® #8 thread sealant. If ABS plastic parts are involved, male or female or in any combination, the author employs Rectorseal T Plus 2™ paste (PTFE) sealant. DO NOT USE the Rectorseal® #8 WITH ABS, IT CAN DEFORM THE THREADS. On PVC pipe and fittings, because the material has great chemical resistance, the #8 is O.K.
O.K. I think we’ve covered most of the bases except for mentioning a few “special cases.” The first one I’ll mention will be: PVC pipe, nipples and fittings.
This plastic, PVC, is so slippery to begin with that when adding PTFE ribbon tape to the mix, ole Gorilla Mitts used to occasionally split fittings by over-tightening them, by hand. Two-pairs of 10- or 12-in. slide-jaw pliers (See The Straight Poop, A Plumber’s Tattler, or…either of my Taunton soft-covers to view these pliers. They’re also shown in the newly Revised PEX Edition, Plumbing A House, e-version.) These two tools allow you, with the aid of PTFE ribbon and paste, and a handsaw for plastic or a chop-saw with a blade for plastic, to assemble threaded Schedules #40 and #80 PVC pipe & fittings, up to 1½- and 2.0-in. in diameter, with perhaps a little too much ease.
Second loose end. When taping pipe and nipples for metallic fuel gas systems, make sure to start wrapping the tape on, one thread higher up than we did for our PVC practice nipple. If you create ribbon slivers (which you do not want on gas and compressed air systems, which we touched upon up-stream), it’s when you run your tape too close to, or overlap the first, beginning thread. A little swipe with the pipe joint compound’s ‘BRUSH IN CAP’ brush, across the female threads of the female fitting, will make up for the naked first thread, and even further your chance for fewer or no leaks.
Third loose end. When taping the male threads of 1¼- and 1½-in. ABS and PVC trap adapters (sink wastes), run the tape well enough past (overlap) the first thread on the end of the male fitting to allow you to fold the tape over and roll it down the inside of the inlet barrel of the adapter for maybe an ⅛ to ¼ in. Regardless of whether you employ the beveled nylon slip-joint washer (Installing And Repairing Plumbing Fixtures) or the now common, combination (one piece)‘beveled-nylon washer and slip nut’, or, the simple, old-fashioned, square-cut, rubber slip nut washer in combination with the chromed brass tail piece, this ‘tape-tuck job’(wish it’d be as easy for my bulge) provides a solid bonus to attain the ‘No Leakers Club’ membership.
Fourth And Last. (Not because I exhausted the list, but because I fear I’ve over-challenged your patience.) Some of you may want to become handy at residential plumbing maintenance or maybe you live with tub and shower valves (or wide-spread lavatory faucets) that employ standard, compression washers on screw stems, and you want/need to do ‘drip repair duty.’ This type of valve employs packing nuts. (See: The Straight Poop.) When adding string packings around the stems, under this nut, do the same as we did for the trap adapters: wrap the tape fully over the threads and then overlap so you can fold it under the bottom edge of the nut. This helps to evenly apply pressure to the packing for better stem-leak protection. See ‘The Poop’ for wrench use adjustments.
Well you know what? If you’ve hung with me all the way down to here, you also deserve your own growler of Newcastle Pale.
Adiós Amigos. Let’s meet up again.
Pete the Plumber has an apology this time around for any plumbers visiting In The Pipe. This post deals with a topic which will surely bore you to tears, so maybe you wanna skip this one and check back in
another month. For the non-plumbers and the ‘basically curious’, the author believes this post will prove worth your reading time.
The plumbers of today would have a harder time making ‘things’ work if PTFE (Teflon™) hadn’t been invented. But it was. And, plumbers love the stuff, whether in the form of ribbon, paste, string-packing, or flat, rigid shapes (faucet washers; large-hole, thin, friction washers (for valve spouts and shower heads); and, many internal valve components/cartridges utilize it. Since the application of ribbon-tape- to-male-threads is now so basic to the plumbing trade, and since so many laymen botch the job of applying it, the author felt he should attempt to ‘put that topic to bed’, for good. With this post he’s going to try and send you away with probably the most basic trick in the plumber’s bag. It will be
‘a-bit-of-a-hike’ for the person not wanting to know more than some basic facts about what no longer exists: Teflon™ tape. So, the first push of this article will merely be a background focus. But for those with the stamina, on the second push I’ll tell you how to be more successful using “Teflon™” Tape, That Isn’t.
The Tape That Isn’t, And Why Plumber’s Love It So Much
Isn’t? What’s this “isn’t”? Well, that’s a fun question to answer, if you’ll grant me the privilege. The author admits he’s an antique and/but his recall predates “Teflon™” tape. The now ubiquitous, ribbon-form, white (originally) pipe thread sealant, like many other great inventions, eventuated from a failed lab experiment. Prior to the early 1960’s, civilian plumbers had only oil-based pastes, and fibers (flax and hemp) to seal threaded piping systems.
When you hear the word plumbing, what first comes to mind? Besides that. For many it’s pipes and water. Back in ’38, plumbers had fewer piping choices than they have today. For waste systems, inside buildings, then, it was ‘bell and spigot’ cast iron joined by oakum and molten lead. For water systems it was malleable iron and steel and brass. (Lead, for supply, in-building, by this time was nearly extinct.) The iron/steel and brass were/are joined by the utilization of male and female threads. Today in the residential sector there are additional fresh water piping choices: schedules M, L and K copper, CPVC, PEX, Hypertherm 2399, and who knows what’s next. These “modern” choices utilize flame; solvents and cements; insert fittings/compression rings; and, push fittings. A relative late comer is the Press System which utilizes copper, steel and PEX piping and proprietary fittings joined by extreme pressure via specialized, electric tools. These later choices are thread-less methods. So, basically, plumbers employ the ribbon tape that isn’t on Threads. (But not only for fuel gas and pressurized water, the stuff is indispensable for threads found in gravity DWV systems also.) Downstream the author gives the reader a little insight on threads, an invention of antiquity (3000 + yrs. ago?) one born with plumbing (irrigation) in mind.
Now Why It Isn’t
A very smart young man named Roy J. Plunkett (from simple Ohio beginnings), graduated in 1927 from high school and had gone off to Manchester College, Indiana, showing real promise in the study of chemistry, earning his B.A. Then it was off to Ohio State University for his M.A. and PhD. There he met another very smart young man, Paul Flory (who later won the Nobel for chemistry). They were roommates at OSU. I can just imagine the dinner prep/KP discussions those two had. Both reached pinnacles in the chemistry world of polymers (rubbers and ‘plastics’) (Tom Thumb moments).
The epochal chemistry moment we’re concerned with, the discovery of PTFE occurred in 1938 when we find Plunkett in the employ of the newly minted DuPont Company. In short, what Roy J. Plunkett concocted was a pasty white powder, and possibly the world’s slipperiest material (polytetrafluoroethylene.) Like many great inventions it was discovered before there was a market for it. What Plunkett had accidentally done was to polymerize tetrafluoroethylene (gas) into polytetrafluoroethylene. Between 1938 (“April 6, 1938”) and 1945, when it was patented, there was a lot of cooking-pushing-poking-stretching. It’s official, copyrighted , commercial name, now held by Chemours Co., is Teflon™.
PTFE was first put to work in munitions fuses and in a degree of liquid form, as a hi-tech R & D sealant. Its first and biggest customer was our ‘Dear Uncle’. He needed this miracle at work for his fledging aerospace (Defense in general) (no-pun), industry. As an almost paste form it was used to seal rocket sections. (How many remember the other “Ride Sally, Ride”?) That nightmare was a neoprene o-ring failure between rocket sections. It’s ironic that PTFE is as deeply entwined within the Plumbing Industry as Buna-N neoprene.
Anyway, you’ll notice (this is a test) that the miracle material PTFE in tape form is not advertised as Teflon™ Tape. All you will see mentioned on the spool sides is PTFE. There is no “Teflon™” tape. That name now belongs to Chemours, (a related company) and they do not make Teflon™ tape. (And they want everyone to know this and desist from identifying PTFE, in any form, as Teflon™. (I think Du Pont once did sell the tape and called it Teflon™.) They’ll sell you their powders to manufacture it yourself if you go through the legal hoops. My memory on this subject of tape form goes back to the late fifties and early sixties. I “think” I remember seeing the words Teflon™ and DuPont, spelled out, on spools of the stuff but according to the literature that is not conclusive. That “imaginary?” spool, I think I remember, was designed not to be opened; it was shaped like a tape measure, with a flat bottom, and “tape” dispensed out of a slot. In this case there was a built-in sharp blade that cleanly cut the exceptionally thick tape in two, by squeezing the plastic spool. The author has worked in several labs, government and private, which would have used top quality but I can’t recall in which camp it was encountered.
The tape is, as you well know, sold in several widths (and colors.) The most common for plumber/homeowner is the ½-in. width. I’ll use this width for threads (it has other uses, too) up to 1½-in. pipe size even though you see recommendations in the literature for wider tapes here. The number of wraps to make is determined by the length of threads and the tolerances of the parts to be joined. For 2-in. pipe and above it’s more convenient and quicker to use ¾- or 1.0-in. wide tape. The author has read recommendations by the manufacturers and other plumbers for distinct tape widths for distinct pipe diameters. The author can successfully fit 2-in. pipe with ½- in. wide tape. It’s the coverage depth (thickness) that is the concern here. It does take longer to wrap the ½-in. for the larger pipe sizes but this does not mean you must adhere to these printed width-to-diameter tables. The ultimate arbiter is NO LEAKS! Also, the medium that’s going to be flowing in the new system figures into how I apply the stuff, which I will tell you about downstream.
I have no figures to substantiate my hunch, but I think the pipe trades, or for a better choice: the sealing of threads (many kinds, many industries/occupations), constitutes a major activity that TPFE manufacturers satisfy. (Though the author once applied (with many, tiny, bronze, flat-head screws), long, half-in. wide strips of PTFE, ¼-in. thick, on the bottom of a wooden two-man kayak, so as to paddle rocky riffles.) The boat was named by a friend, its builder (not PtP): Agape. (My friend was a highly religious fellow.) Never knew for sure though, whether it was the boat’s name or all of the PTFE bottom strips, but Agape had a long and exciting career. It was never wrecked. A flood took it away. (But the speed, smoothness and durability with which you rode on boulder and cobble was easily discernible from that of wooden bottoms. I had to be certain it was beached on level ground and tethered, or you could turn around to find it racing back into the water.)
In the author’s first published pedagogy (The Straight Poop, A Plumber’s Tattler) he attempted, in text and through a series of rather amateurish, artistically illustrated hands, to show how to apply ribbon tape to a pipe nipple. I don’t know how much the drawings helped, but The Straight Poop, A Plumber’s Tattler is still viable, and available on the used market.
Threads and Nipples
They can be long, short, from tiny diameter to large. (In my early days in the trade, any pipe, any pipe material, longer than 12” was referred to as a “section” or “stick”.) Up to 12 inches was a nipple. What was common to all steel (no HVAC), and brass ones though were threads. Have you ever given much thought to threads? No, not your fine duds, but the modern day extrapolation of Archimedes’s screw, possibly our earliest example of functioning threads, which he incorporated into a water pump. This Archimedes, another real smart guy, was born in Syracuse, Sicily, in 287 BC. (He died in 212 BC.) The actual invention date of his world benefiting hand carved wooden screw (threads born?) is not known, for sure. Its origins go way back. One British researcher, Stephanie Dalley from the Oriental Institute, Oxford, deciphered cuneiforms of King Sennacherib (Assyrian) describing the casting of brass water screws 350 years before Archimedes’s wooden one. But modern day adaptations can be found in power drills, snowblowers, augers, harvesters, concrete pumps, and the list goes on.
I’ve read Archimedes came to his screw water pump invention just as a major drought was gripping Europe and parts of Asia. A water pump, like Archimedes’s design, using a long screw and long outer tube or pipe, carved with close enough tolerances, lifted canal water much more efficiently than by man and bucket. (He developed his screw after visiting Egypt, where it might already have been in use.) Today when we apply PTFE, both tape and paste, to male (and especially in our case) male iron pipe threads (MIP), it’s done to both take advantage of PFTE’s slipperiness to counteract the friction of threads-in-mesh, allowing good thread purchase (engagement), but also its sealing quality, filling in the gap between non-precision (perfect) mating threads. The author will go into application details downstream for those curious. Paste PTFE is applied to female threads as well, but there are some tweaks here and I’ll cover those in another post, sometime.
When a non-plumber holds a threaded nipple or a “stick” of manufactured steel/malleable pipe in their hands, they could be forgiven for believing that it is perfectly round. But it is not. It is though, expected to be within close approximation. The out-of-roundness varies by manufacturer. The industry standard of acceptance for near-roundness is one percent deviation per diameter of pipe. The author can sometimes pick up a stick and detect one that ‘got by’ Quality Control. The more degree out of round a threaded pipe or nipple is, the more resistance (per friction) is encountered when engaging (threading) on a threaded fitting, or vice-versa. Female threads in fittings that are an unacceptable degree of roundness are no less problematic. This can mean the necessity of employing bigger, heavier (more tiring) pipe wrenches for joinery than ‘should’ be necessary. And it means increased possibility of leaks.
Other Smart Fellows
Did you know that in 1841 a ‘Brit’ by the name of Joseph Whitworth (1771-1852, inventor of a metal lathe) did something that radically altered the pace of mechanical progress (most appreciated by plumbers)? Whitworth was an inventor with ‘noble’ machinist skills. At the time, “machinists” and other craftsmen were making threads that for some personal reason they favored above other possibilities. There was no standardization. The thread may have differed in as many ways as those creating them. Whitworth forever changed this. It was his and the world’s good fortune that the thread he produced on his-invented lathe was eventually adopted by the railroads of the time, and became known as the British Standard Whitworth. He was not modest about his accomplishment either. In his memoirs he had the following to say about his lathe: ….”worth all the other tools in use in any workshop in the world, for finishing, machining brass and iron.” With his invention, at an opportune time, the screw cutting lathe allowed a standard to be defined and maintained. (The patent on Whitworth’s lathe expired in 1812.)
Another smart guy, William Sellers, an American, years behind Whitworth, in 1864, presented a paper to the Franklin Institute in Philadelphia proposing a new thread standard for the United States. He changed Whitworth’s thread angle from 55 to 60 degrees and altered the tip and valley shapes. This thread design eventually became the United States Standard thread. In time it underwent further refinements to father: NC (National Course), NF (National Fine), and in our interest: NPT (National Pipe Taper).
Of the threads on which plumbers mostly apply PTFE ribbon tape, male iron pipe threads (MIP), (which are National Pipe Taper) are undoubtedly coarser and of less precision than thread found in say the automotive and mechanical fields. These ‘plumber’s’ tapered threads (male and female) form a high friction wedge seal, upon meshing (completing engagement). It’s (or was) common to refer to this completed connection as being married. Not all threaded pipe encountered in the market, with so many suppliers, has threads of equal high quality. When making your own, on equipment not properly maintained, sub-standard quality threads happen a lot, which are more prone to leaks. With quality threads (both male pipe and female fitting), some brands can be pre-assembled with mere gloved hands. Some you can barely get two threads in-mesh without use of ever longer and heavier wrenches. This could be the fault of the male OR the female threads, or BOTH. (On your unlucky days it can be both.)
No amount of liquid/paste pipe joint compound, even PTFE versions, applied to male or female threads, or both, affords the same ease of assembly as PTFE ribbon on male, solo, IF the tape is of high quality. Thank you, thank you, thank you Roy J. Plunkett.
Tape Quality And Color
What makes for high quality in PTFE ribbon tape? A number of things but the two foremost are content ratios of PTFE (purity) and thickness. This differs markedly between tape manufacturers. Early in the ‘PTFE-into-tape’ process it was realized that a thickness standard needed to be established.
Uncle Sam, the first and biggest customer, had his requisites: 3.5 mils thick and 99% purity (of PTFE): MIL-T-27730 A. Much of the ‘industry’ (honest ones) adheres to that or a newer specification: A-A-58092 which also requires the 3.5 mil thickness and purity levels but adds a density requirement of 1.2g/cm3.
The author can still remember the day when a Will-Call clerk (John Paul) shoved a roll of yellow ribbon tape at me from across his counter: “For Nat. gas….new Oakland reg.” (Some community inspectors want to also see yellow tape for LPG fuel gas.) Up until then it had just been one color: white. Turns out a gent (Bill Bentley) I believe in England, had come up with a color code for tape used in different applications. Me suspects what happened…I’ll wager: Some skin-flint plumber trying to conserve on an at-the-time quite pricy supply item (PTFE Ribbon Tape) used insufficient amounts on a gas job and dodged inspection, and at some point the system failed and there was fire and or injury or both. (Greed knows no race or borders.) (Sorta like a standard where cities wait for ten wrecks at an intersection before spending the bucks for stop signs.) The author had been using the proper amount of quality (USA) white tape for inspected water, gas, and threaded DWV, for years, without any problems.
The tape became colored to keep plumbers honest and purchasing 3.5 Mil, high-purity, high-density and allowed inspectors to know the plumbers were behaving. (The purple color of PVC primer and the pink of ABS-to-PVC transition cement are other examples where color was added to assure regulations compliance.) A pink color, connoting 3.5 Mil/99% pure, for general use, was the first color experiment the author recalls. This color for ribbon tape could only be given to quality manufacturers making stuff such as A-A-558902. If the offshore outfits had tried pinking their junk stuff I’m sure there would have been grounds for serious trade ramifications. (We have entered a Public Safety realm, here.) Did this guarantee that there’d be no leaks? Answer: No. (That’s a case for workmanship.) But, it improved the odds for fewer failures. Mill-Rose (good stuff) makes a blue tape (Blue Monster) which is in good part a marketing strategy, but not an official requirement for any particular type of piping (until some senior building inspector adds it to his community’s Local Code). But it is even thicker than 3.5 Mil. (4.0). Look on the outside of any quality spool for the thickness figure and Mil spec numbers or hopefully A-A-58092. The cheap stuff has only PTFE noted, with no thickness or content figures; and, there’s next only the country of origin noted.
Two other color standards were popularized: green for oxygen (can’t have any oils involved) and gray for stainless steel piping systems. The gray has microscopic particles of nickel mixed in which functions as an anti-galling (anti-seize) component. Unless you’re plumbing lab/hospital-medical/R&D you need not concern yourself with gray or green. These colors are for the U.S.; other countries have their own color schedules. For instance, in England green is for water.
In the literature I have seen red flags for using ribbon tape on compressed air. On high pressure lines, if too much tape is used the joint can fail (with much dramatic effect) by separating, dangerously. Also, when creating systems, any type, threads can cut tiny slivers of tape and send them down stream. For water it’s not a big deal because good plumbers remove valve cartridges, shower heads, faucet aerators, toilet fill-valve seals and regulator screens prior to charging their systems and the slivers (and other “line trash”) are flushed out. In the case for fuel gas (and compressed air) slivers can easily be ‘blown’ into difficult-to-access, fine-mesh screens in regulation equipment. (I have advice for you on this topic, downstream, in the second push.)
Tit For Tat
Another benefit to the coloring idea was a leveling of the economic playing field. After the market for the original, standard, quality 3.5 Mil white tape had grown to a size to attract fierce competition, certain countries (I won’t mention names) began selling “at first appearance” look-a-like tape with much less thickness, purity, and density, and of course at a much cheaper price as well as quality. Some of these off-shore outfits resorted to pricking the thinner cheap stuff with pricking equipment as it was extruded to “fluff” it up, in order to claim a thicker thickness than it really was. By coloring the quality stuff it differentiated it from the bogus. I am sure there are smaller, independent makers of quality tape, in a number of countries, but because piping systems are so labor intensive and time consuming to break down and re-fit, here’s a good place not to cut corners. PtP has used pink Mill-Rose brand (U.S.) for decades and found it ‘top drawer’, on water, gas, and DWV. I’ve also used their of-late, thicker Blue Monster line too, but still prefer the 3.5 Mil tape for some uses.
HOT TIP: The author does use the thin cheap offshore ½-in wide ribbon tape for ONE application: the fine male threads on 1¼-in. lavatory threaded tail pieces and the same fine male threads on 1½-in. threaded tailpieces, applicable to kitchen sink waste components and bath waste & overflow tailpieces. These threads are so shallow that the thicker quality tapes are too thick. Because of the extreme slipperiness of PTFE you can easily cross-thread these components. If the author has more than just a couple of failed attempts to achieve ‘threads in mesh’ (engagements) with these components, even without suffering thread damage, I remove the tape and use only pipe joint compound in its stead, with customary success. In a future post I’ll get around to telling you my preferences for pipe joint compounds, and why. (See: Installing And Repairing Plumbing Fixtures.)
Well, that’s the end of the ‘beginner’s hike’, the first push. All who want, “It’s to the showers”! But any thru-traveling die-hard masochists are going to love what follows.
Part 2 - Coming soon...stay tuned.
Peter Hemp is a San Francisco East Bay residential plumber and plumbing author and former R & D steam vehicle plumber. His hobbies are ocean kayaking and touring the Left Coast by bicycle.
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